Renewal Pruning Guide for Overgrown Shrubs

Renewal pruning is the absolute best way to rejuvenate older, overgrown shrubs, and also the best tool for maintaining healthy shrubs! This version of a plant ‘buzz cut’ is a much-needed refresher and a very important chore for maintaining and revitalizing a tired, old, overgrown plant!

Maybe your Lilac is simply old and overgrown and you really need to rejuvenate it. Maybe you just moved into a new home and have a hedge of overgrown, forgotten Forsythias, or a single Rose bush that has become sparse and leggy. Even a consistently sheared foundation row of Evergreens can start to look less stellar as each year passes. It’s time to break out those pruners!

Here’s how to properly give your plant a reboot and not end up with the plant version of the bowl cut!

The Importance of Renewal Pruning
What and When to Renewal Prune
When NOT To Prune
Renewal Pruning After-Care
Plant Fountain of Youth

The Importance of Renewal Pruning

The key to a successful renewal is to cut out the oldest stems about every third year. Simply cutting out the oldest, fattest stems of an overgrown shrub, allows for younger, thinner stems to remain in place to flower and fruit. This will keep the growth in balance and maintain the best flowering and fruiting all while keeping the natural shape and size of the shrub!

By removing older, diseased, neglected, damaged, and/or less productive stems, you make room for younger and more vigorous ones. You open up the plants with better air circulation and stimulate better flowering and fruiting. Cleaning out the interior of a plant eliminates the ‘rats nest’ of any build-up of dead leaves, trash, broken twigs, and branches, and removes hiding spots for disease, fungus, and insects.

Types of Renewal Pruning

Renewal Pruning - Is used to refresh and maintain overgrown shrubs without disturbing the flowers and fruiting. It is typically done every 3-4 years by cutting out up to about ⅓ of the oldest, fattest stems right down to a bud closest to the soil line - leaving the younger and thinner stems in place. If done yearly you may only need to remove a stem or two depending upon the genus. This can be done in late winter or early spring, or you can allow the plant to bloom and then cut out those fattest stems right after the spring bloom finishes.
Complete Rejuvenation Pruning - Good for rejuvenating older, neglected, and overgrown shrubs that need a complete renewal to avoid replacement. Simply cut all stems down to a bud closest to the soil line of all stems. New shoots will develop from the roots, starting the plant over. Typically done in winter or early spring for best results. Sounds drastic, but well worth it while the shrub regrows all new stems from the established root system.

What and When to Renewal Prune

Regular renewal pruning keeps the plants looking their best. Even the more severe rejuvenation can save you thousands of dollars from having the older shrubs taken out and replaced! By thinning out old shrubs, you can bring them back to life with just a few easy steps.

But the timing of your pruning is the key to success!

Old Wood Blooming Shrubs

Many early spring flowering plants have already formed their flowers on the growth from last year (on old wood), so pruning at the wrong time will eliminate those flowers for this spring. So if you want to enjoy the blooms first and then cut out the oldest stems you may.

If an unavoidable spring renewal pruning is necessary, and it is a spring-flowering shrub, please know that your shrub will not flower the year that you prune it. It’s just not possible for it to regrow that quickly and produce flowers. But by the following year, the flowers should be abundant.

New Wood Blooming Shrubs

Other shrubs that bloom on new wood like many of the smaller Spiraeas, Butterfly Bush, Diervilla, Caryoptereis, Shrub and Hybrid Roses, or Crape Myrtles can simply be cut down in late winter or early spring and new flowers will develop on the new growth each year.

Dormant plants are also easier to prune because you can see the branching without the leaves in the way. Larger, older selections can be hard pruned by removing the oldest stems out to the ground in the winter, leaving the slender, smaller stems to take over. Because you are removing the entire branch to the ground, there is no worry about missing out on that year's flowers or fruit.

Reblooming Shrubs

For reblooming varieties like some Bloomerang Lilacs, Encore Azaleas and Reblooming Weigela, it is recommended Renewal prune right after the first flush of flowers for best results.

Broadleaf Evergreens

Renewal pruning techniques help promote bushier growth closer to the ground of older Broadleaf Evergreens such as Boxwood, Holly, Euonymus, and evergreen Viburnums. This also helps remove winter dieback and injury while encouraging new growth from within to produce a fuller plant. These plants do benefit from a yearly cleaning out of their interiors where dead needles and branches collect, crowding and shading out the interior - leading to insect, disease and moisture issues from the lack of sunlight and air circulation.

Coniferous Evergreens

Evergreens are typically not candidates for renewal pruning. Instead plants like Japanese Yews, Arborvitae shrubs, Spreading Junipers, and Boxwood can all be pruned by heading back the longest stems back into the body of the plant (to where there is still foliage) - but never cutting them off at the ground level or they will not regrow from those cut stems without foliage on them.

Any specific pruning questions can be directed to our customer service team for help or check out that plant’s #ProPlantTips For Care on its Product Page.

Plants that benefit from renewal pruning

When NOT To Prune

Avoid renewal pruning too late in the season or the new growth will not have enough time to develop and harden off before the end of the growing season.
Avoid renewal pruning evergreens since they do not bounce back and regrow like deciduous trees and shrubs.
Avoid hard pruning any shrub or shrubby tree that has a single stem or trunk. Opt for thinning the crown instead.
Look out for grafted plants because they are growing on a different rootstock and cutting the plant off below the graft will result in the rootstock growing instead of the desired plant.
Complete cutback rejuvenation can be stressful on plants if done too late in the season so consider doing so in late winter or early spring before it starts to grow.

Tools of the Trade

Protect yourself and save yourself some time with these tips:

Large tarp or two to lay down and collect all the trimmings
Yard waste bags
A helper, bungee cords, or twine to help hold branches out of the way
Depending on the size of the job

Hand Pruners - either anvil or bypass & ratchet for thicker limbs
Lopping Shears
Pruning Saws

Ensure all tools are sharp and sanitized. Sanitize between each cut!
Long heavy sleeves and thick gloves
Eye Protection when reaching deep into a shrub to protect yourself from gouging stems

Renewal Pruning After-Care

Give your newly pruned shrubs a little TLC to help them recover the very best!

Water the plant well when needed using the finger test method that entire growing season. Continue right through their first winter if applicable. Provide a nice 3-4 inch layer of Arborist mulch over the root zone of the plant, covering the entire drip line area.

Keep high-nitrogen lawn fertilizer away from your flowering shrub, but instead, use one of our balanced fertilizers formulated for flowering shrubs (only when needed) as an early spring application.

Plant Fountain of Youth

Like a makeover, a Mani/Pedi, or a fresh new haircut, we all walk out of the salon feeling like a million bucks! You can update your ornamental shrubs with a smart renewal pruning job which can transform your landscape overnight. You will extend your plant's life, and enhance its health, beauty, and form - and save yourself a lot of money by not having to remove and replace the plants with Renewal Pruning! Then check out more information about Pruning

here! So do some warm-up stretches, grab a helper and get your shrubs looking and feeling young again with the help of Nature Hills Nursery!

Happy Planting!

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you rejuvenate an overgrown shrub without killing it?

Renewal pruning every 3 to 4 years is the safest way to rejuvenate an overgrown shrub without shocking it into decline. Remove up to one-third of the oldest, fattest stems by cutting them down to a bud near the soil line, leaving the younger, thinner stems intact to continue flowering and fruiting. The best time to do this is in late winter or early spring before new growth emerges, or right after the spring bloom finishes for flowering shrubs. Start with the thickest, most unproductive stems first and work gradually over multiple seasons if the shrub is severely overgrown.

When is the best time to start renewal pruning on established shrubs?

The best time to perform renewal pruning on established shrubs is in late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins. This timing allows you to clearly see the oldest, fattest stems and remove up to one-third of them down to a bud near the soil line without interfering with the growing season. If you want to enjoy the blooms first on spring-flowering shrubs like Lilacs or Forsythias, you can wait and cut out those oldest stems immediately after the spring bloom finishes. Plan to repeat this process every 3 to 4 years to keep your shrubs healthy, well-shaped, and producing their best flowers and fruit.

How do you use renewal pruning to restore a shrub that has stopped blooming?

Shrubs that have stopped blooming are often choked by old, unproductive wood that shades out younger, more vigorous stems. Every 3 to 4 years, cut out up to one-third of the oldest and fattest stems right down to a bud near the soil line, leaving younger, thinner stems in place to flower. For spring-blooming shrubs like Lilac or Forsythia, do this in late winter or early spring before growth begins, or wait until just after the spring bloom finishes. Start by identifying the thickest, woodiest stems and remove those first, working your way through the shrub to open up airflow and let light reach the productive growth below.

How far back can you cut an overgrown shrub during renewal pruning?

During renewal pruning, you can cut up to one-third of the oldest, fattest stems all the way down to a bud closest to the soil line, leaving the younger, thinner stems in place. For severely neglected shrubs, complete rejuvenation pruning allows you to cut all stems down to a bud near the soil line for a full reset. This is best done in late winter or early spring before new growth emerges, or right after the spring bloom finishes. Start by identifying your thickest, oldest stems and remove those first to encourage the younger, more vigorous growth to take over.

How do you renewal prune bridal wreath spirea to keep it healthy and full?

Bridal wreath spirea responds beautifully to renewal pruning done right after it finishes blooming in spring, since it blooms on old wood and pruning too early will sacrifice that spectacular floral display. Every three to four years, cut up to one-third of the oldest, thickest canes all the way down to a bud near the soil line, leaving the younger, thinner stems intact to maintain the plant's graceful arching shape. For shrubs that have become severely overgrown, you can do a complete rejuvenation by cutting all stems back to near the soil line and allowing the plant to regrow from scratch. Start by identifying the fattest, woodiest canes at the base and remove those first, then step back to assess the plant's overall balance before making any additional cuts.

Can you cut a rose bush all the way back and will it recover?

Yes, cutting a rose bush all the way back is a valid technique called Complete Rejuvenation Pruning, and most roses will recover vigorously from it. Cut all stems down to a bud closest to the soil line, ideally in late winter or early spring before new growth begins. After pruning, water thoroughly and apply a balanced fertilizer to support the flush of new growth. This approach is especially useful for older, leggy, or neglected rose bushes that have lost their shape and productivity.

Should you prune shrubs differently in summer compared to other seasons?

Yes, summer pruning timing depends largely on whether your shrub flowers on old or new wood. Spring-blooming shrubs like Lilacs and Forsythias should be pruned right after their blooms fade, since cutting them in late summer or fall removes next year's flower buds. For renewal pruning specifically, late winter or early spring is ideal for most shrubs, though you can also wait until after the spring bloom to remove the oldest, fattest stems down to a bud near the soil line. Observe when your shrub blooms, identify whether it flowers on old or new wood, and schedule your pruning accordingly to protect both the plant's health and its flowering potential.

How many stems should you remove at one time when renewal pruning a shrub?

When renewal pruning, remove up to one-third of the oldest, fattest stems at a time, cutting them down to a bud closest to the soil line while leaving the younger, thinner stems in place. This process is typically performed every 3 to 4 years, though if you prune annually you may only need to remove one or two stems depending on the shrub. For best results, tackle this task in late winter or early spring before new growth emerges, or wait until just after the spring bloom finishes to avoid sacrificing that season's flowers.

How do you know if an overgrown shrub is a good candidate for renewal pruning?

Most overgrown shrubs are excellent candidates for renewal pruning, especially if they have become sparse, leggy, or are producing fewer flowers and fruit than they used to. Look for shrubs with thick, older stems crowding out younger growth, poor air circulation in the interior, or a buildup of dead leaves, broken twigs, and debris. Common candidates include Lilacs, Forsythias, and Rose bushes that have been neglected or left unmanaged for several years. If the shrub still has some younger, thinner stems present and is not completely dead or diseased throughout, start by cutting out up to one-third of the oldest, fattest stems down to a bud near the soil line in late winter or early spring.

Can renewal pruning help shrubs that have become woody and bare at the base?

Yes, renewal pruning is one of the most effective techniques for revitalizing shrubs that have become woody and bare at the base. Every 3 to 4 years, cut up to one-third of the oldest, fattest stems down to a bud closest to the soil line, which encourages younger, more vigorous growth to fill in from the base. For severely neglected shrubs, complete rejuvenation pruning removes all stems at once for a full reset. Begin in late winter or early spring before new growth emerges, or wait until just after the spring bloom finishes to avoid sacrificing that season's flowers.