Some plants need plenty of good air circulation for health. Fresh air will help prevent the growth of certain fungus, bacteria and molds.  Planting sites with poor air circulation can introduce disease issues and stress your plants. Stressed plants can attract insect problems, as well. Growing conditions make a big difference in the health of your plants. Never fear! Read on for #ProPlantTips on how to improve air circulation for plants from the Nature Hills horticulturist team. How To Site Your Plant Correctly Please, don’t slam your plants right up against the house, other structures, or next to other plants. Study the mature size when selecting your plants. Get out there and measure to determine the right number of plants for the area you are planting.  Install plants far enough apart to accommodate the size of the plant as it grows and develops. You’ll be glad you took the time to “measure twice, and plant once!” Give them growing room to allow adequate air flow around the plant. Air movement is important for plant growth. Plenty of growing space helps them achieve the optimal length and width. As a special consideration, foundation plants need a bit of extra room. Keep it easy on yourself. You’ll want leeway to wash windows, do home maintenance or paint. Those tasks are a LOT easier, if the shrubs are not in the way. You’ll want to know your property, because where you plant can also affect how your plants perform. Cold air always settles into the lower areas of your property. These low areas are where you’ll see early frosts in the fall. You’ll also see those nasty late spring frosts, which can cause plenty of damage to developing spring flowers. Don’t plant fruiting trees and bushes in low areas if you are in a frost zone. The fruit crop for the entire season can be eliminated with a poorly placed planting site.  How Close Is Too Close? It Depends on the Application Some plants are intended to touch. Think about mass plantings or groundcovers that beautifully fill bare ground in wide, open spaces. For these plants, the plants can be planted closer together without harm. Hedges are another good example of plants you want to grow together and touch. Plant them closer together to achieve your goal of a solid screen faster. Keep in mind that hedges are a double-sided row of plants. Ensure you have good air exposure on either side of your hedge. This will help you grow a healthy hedge. Special Consideration for Fruiting and Flowering Plants Some plants are just a bit “fussier” than others when it comes to leaf diseases and other problems. Nearly all fruit and flowering trees appreciate good air circulation. Here’s how to keep your plants to vigorous and stress free: Damp or wet leaves should be avoided on all of your plants. Wet leaves are the perfect condition for the development of many fungal diseases like powdery mildew and the dreaded blackspot on Rose leaves.  If you have irrigation sprinkling your plants frequently, be sure to reduce the spray on the tops of the plants. Use drip irrigation when you can to direct water to the soil. Keep the foliage dry when you can. Less frequent irrigation with a larger amount of water for each watering may be helpful.  Good air circulation promotes faster drying, more transpiration, and prevents the dew from developing on the leaves of your plants. Here’s How the Pros Plant and Manage Orchards and Vineyards The drying power of the morning sun can reduce the growth of fungal infections. Many orchards and vineyards are planted in open areas with a southeast exposure. The plants catch the early morning sun, which dries the dew from the plants first thing in the morning.  You will also notice that these same orchards and vineyards are using drip irrigation to keep the water at the roots only. They aren’t spraying overhead and getting the plants all wet.  If you must do overhead irrigation, it is best to apply the water in early morning. Don’t water your vegetables, flowers, fruit trees and orchards in the evening. Those plants will stay wet all night long, extending the time where disease can grow and spread. Keep your plants healthy with proper spacing, proper siting, and correct irrigation to keep the foliage dry. If your trees are in an area of poor air circulation, try some corrective pruning. Thin out the canopy to open up the crown a bit on very dense-headed trees. Sometimes a few simple cuts can make all the difference in the world. Make Careful Plant Selection for Your Property Choose plants that may not be as susceptible to fungus and disease problems. You can also look for later bloom times, which can prevent late frosts from taking out a crop altogether.  Nature Hills prides ourselves in the accuracy of our plant descriptions and nomenclature and you will notice that all of the information you will need to know about a certain plant is listed right on our webpage.  We also have an excellent customer service staff and offer live chat with our team. Get the help you need when making your plant selections. Contact your local Ag Extension to get more personalized advice for your area. They can give you specific answers for plants that perform best in your area or climate. Remember, the plants you order from Nature Hills will get bigger! Study the mature height and spread of your new tree, shrub, rose or vine in the Plant Highlights to see how big it will eventually grow. Give your plants room to breathe!

When it comes to curb and garden appeal, you can’t go wrong with an accent plant. These stand-alone or small grouping of plants are meant to draw the eye and provide a focal point in your garden. Adding accent plants to your yard is a great way to enhance visual appeal and make a lasting impression. What is an Accent Plant? As the name indicates, an accent plant is a shrub or tree with interesting characteristics that is placed to highlight your yard or garden. These are showstopper plants that offer some serious “wow” factor, from showy flowers, to bright fall foliage and unique form.  Benefits of Accent Plants There are many reasons to incorporate accent plants into your landscape. Consider this: Visual impact. Accent plants help break up areas of repetitive texture, such as open lawns, fences or walkways, to make your yard truly memorable. Draw the eye. Much like a painter uses colors to draw the eyes to the important parts of his work, accent plants use color, texture, and shape to draw the eyes to the most beautiful parts of your landscape. Provide a focal point. Accent plants are meant to be the focal point of the yard, and because of this can help you coordinate the rest of your garden for a stunning effect. Accent Plant Tips & Ideas Make it Pop In order for an accent plant to really “pop” and catch the eye, it needs to stand out from its surroundings, without clashing. When choosing an accent plant to place in your yard, consider your garden’s overall theme and style. What is the texture like? What are the dominant colors, and when do they stand out most? Your goal is to draw attention, so it’s important to keep in mind which accent plant characteristics will help you achieve that goal. Choose Wisely As with any plant, be sure that you select an accent shrub or tree that will truly thrive in your yard. Planting in an unsuitable location, no matter how beautiful the plant can be, will result in poorer health for the accent plant, more work for you, and worse results. Accent plants especially are meant to stand out, so you want to make sure to set them up for success. Consider All Four Seasons The best accent plants will draw the eye all year long. When selecting your accent plant, or accent planting, take all four seasons into account. If your choice accent tree is spring-blooming, extend its impact with some summer-blooming bulbs, or choose a plant that has that coveted four season appeal: spring color, bright summer and fall foliage, and pretty winter bark. Our Favorite Accent Plants There are many shrubs and trees that make fabulous accent plants. These are some of our - and our customers’ - favorites: Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea, Tree Form The tree form of the Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea is one of the most striking and eye catching options to add to your landscape plan. This hydrangea is trained to grow like a small “tree,” adding its unique shape to its already beautiful display. With bright flowering cones that reach seven inches long in summer, and blossoms that change gradually from white to a soft reddish pink, this accent plant is a breathtaking centerpiece in any garden. Relatively easy to maintain and hardy in most of the US, the Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea is a sure bet for a beautiful accent plant in a variety of settings. https://www.naturehills.com/vanilla-strawberry-hydrangea-tree-form Blue Chinese Wisteria Tree Boasting one of the most stunning flower displays anywhere, the Blue Chinese Wisteria Tree is a beautiful and elegant addition to your landscape. Growing up to 15 feet tall and displaying bright blue blossoms that appear before soft green leaves in late spring, this tree form of the traditionally vining wisteria is sure to stand out. In addition to their stunning beauty, the blossoms have a sweet fragrance that both you and your neighbors will appreciate! No wonder this is our best-seller, year after year. https://www.naturehills.com/blue-chinese-wisteria Betty Magnolia The Betty Magnolia is a compact version of its larger magnolia counterparts, growing to between 12-15 feet tall, but still packs the same impressive flowery punch! Magnolias have always been known for their fragrant and robust blossoms, and this small-garden friendly magnolia delivers on that promise without taking up too much space. With lush summer foliage and a cold-hardy constitution, the Betty Magnolia is a great option to add a stunning display to your garden or landscape. https://www.naturehills.com/magnolia-betty Japanese Maple For major four season appeal, the unique coral bark japanese maple is a fabulous choice. Featuring coral-pink bark and light green leaves that turn gold in autumn, this accent tree is a real showstopper. Like all Japanese maples, it is an easy keeper that will turn heads all year long. In fact, one of its best seasons is in winter when the bright bark stands out against the snow. https://www.naturehills.com/coral-bark-japanese-maple A thoughtfully planted accent plant can set the atmosphere and improve the visual dynamic of any garden or landscape design. With careful planning, and a little adventurous spirit, you can use accent plants to make your landscape truly captivating.  

One of the best kept secrets of gardening is fall and winter planting. Take advantage of an “old farmer’s trick” and get your plants in the ground at the end of the season. Why does fall and winter planting work so well? The combination of warmer soil and colder air forces your plant to focus only on producing new roots in the fall and winter, which gives your plants a jump start on spring. Your new plant won’t make flower buds, flowers or seeds if it’s planted late in the season. Growing those critical roots helps your new plant get itself established in your landscape. And that is just what you want! Planting in fall through winter allows the roots to develop and affords a head start going into the active growing season in spring. Our horticultural team has put together great tips and tricks for success by Growing Zone.  FIND YOUR ZONE  In Zones 7 – 10, Fall Is Prime Planting Time  When high temperatures start dropping for fall, you’ll want to purchase and plant your trees, shrubs and perennials. Get them in the ground before you miss out on free water from winter rains.  You’ll love saving money on water required to establish new plants. In Zones 7 – 10, planting in fall and or early winter helps your plants establish their root system. This enables your plant to withstand both fluctuating spring temperatures and the early summer hot and dry conditions. Add a good mulch in the late spring and your plant is off to the best start one could hope for. Regional Overview Temperate Zones 7 and 8 such as middle Washington, Oregon and Western Nevada are beginning to get cold, but the ground is still workable. Get your plants in the ground in fall and early winter.  Sometimes the only problem to fall planting is limited availability. Today though, Nature Hills offers year-round availability and the fall availability gets better each season.  See Zones 3 – 6 information if you get a rare freeze.  Dry Zone 7 regions of middle Arizona and New Mexico, the lower Panhandle of Texas and much of Oklahoma and Arkansas are all known for dry fluctuating spring temperatures. This can be hard on establishing plants early in the spring. Plant in fall or winter to get a big head’s start on developing a root system that will protect your new plants in the unpredictable spring season. Humid Zones 7 and 8 in many of the southeastern states such as Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia and South Carolina have wide temperature fluctuations in the spring and early summer. All of these areas benefit from fall and winter plantings to establish root systems. A healthy plant in the spring will help to avoid some spring diseases and give your plants a vigorous head start going into the summer. In these areas, it is possible to plant all throughout the winter months.  Zones 9 and 10 include areas like California and Southern Nevada and South Eastern Texas. These are prime fall and winter planning areas, where water is more expensive or has a higher pH. Planting in spring during the active growing period requires frequent watering, which can really add up.  Getting plants established in areas where the water has a pH of 8.5 or higher can pose problems.  Plant in fall to develop root systems and you’ll benefit from the free fall and winter rains that are most often pH neutral or slightly acid! Both container grown plants and bare root can be planted directly into the ground as soon as they are purchased throughout the winter months in these areas.  Special Considerations for Fall and Winter Planting in Cold Winter Zones 3 - 6 Trust us, the experts at Nature Hills have planted trees in the middle of snowstorms. While not exactly “fun”, the plants did just fine and flowered the following spring. There are real advantages to fall and winter planting, even in the cold winter Zones of 3 – 6. As long as the ground has not yet frozen, you can still plant! If possible, it’s a good idea to “pre-dig” your holes for your new plants from Nature Hills. You’ll be ready to go once they arrive. Holes can be dug several weeks in advance. Simply mound up the dirt next to hole and cover it with straw or even a tarp, as needed. Gardeners who plan ahead save themselves hassles! Ground Conditions Overview Every day can bring fluctuating ground temperatures. When you get your shipment from Nature Hills, determine how much frost there is in your ground. Can you get your shovel into the ground? It’s best to get your plant in the ground right away. Use several trips with a watering can, if your hoses have already been winterized. If there is a thin crust on top of the soil that can easily be broken through, use your shovel to break through that crust. Dig a hole that will accommodate the root system, and plant that plant. Make sure to water the soil completely once you are finished. If the soil did freeze before you had a chance to plant your new plants, you could try pouring a bucket of warm water on the spot that you are planning to dig.  Wait a few minutes to see if it thaws and you can still plant into that soil.  Water well to settle the soil in around the roots. Add mulch to cover the top of the soil. Expecting a warm forecast after a cold snap? You might want to wait and see. If the weather does allow it, break through the frozen ground and get those plants put in the ground. Water them in well. Storing Plants in Zones 3 - 6 If the ground is frozen, and there is no way to dig a hole, you can store your plants very successfully. It’s easy, just follow these steps.  Storing a Container Plant Grab a large garbage bag and open the box in an unheated garage. Take your plants out of the box and water the soil well, allowing the excess to drain out.  Place the plant pot in a large garbage bag to keep the soil and pot inside of the plastic bag. Leaving the top uncovered.  Leave inside your unheated garage or unheated porch and you should have complete success overwintering these dormant plants until they can be installed in the spring.  Please note that Lilacs and Viburnums do not like wet soil, so if the soil in the container is moist on arrival, there is no need to add more water.   Storing Bare Root Plants Grab a large garbage bag. Take your plants out of the box on your unheated garage or porch and remove the small plastic bag from around the wrapped roots. You’ll keep any packing material around the roots but remove the plastic bag. Next, soak the packing material wrapped around the roots in water and allow the excess to drain out.  Then place the wrapped roots inside of your garbage bag.  Allow the plant tops to be open and uncovered. When you are done, the packing materials and roots will be the only thing inside of the garbage bag.   Set those bare root plants inside of your unheated garage or unheated porch. You should have complete success overwintering these plants until they can be installed in the spring.   Additional Tips and Tricks for Plant Selection and Planting It is important to select the right plant for the right location. This means looking to see that it is recommended for your USDA Zone and the sun or shade requirements for the plant are satisfied in the location you would like to plant it in. Too little sun and the plant may have trouble growing, flowering or producing fruit. Too much sun and the plant can sunburn or wilt. Study the Plant Highlights on every product page to learn what the growing requirements are. You can also filter by your specific site conditions and see what your options are.  Most plants need a well-drained soil. It’s critical to choose a location with good drainage.  Doing a drainage test can help to determine if there is a reason for concern.  Dig a hold 12 inches wide by 12 inches deep in the location you want to plant. Fill it with water and time how long it takes the first filling to drain out, then fill it again and time that second drainage. If the second filling takes longer than 3 hours to drain off, you may have a drainage issue.  Where poor drainage is suspected, build a raised bed or mound to 24 inches above the lay of the land. The idea is to develop a portion of the root above the soil line so the entire root is never completely under water during the winter when the amount of water your plant receives is out of your control. Without good drainage, many plant roots suffer from poor oxygen penetration and can rot and eventually die.  Mulching a plant at least 3 to 4 inches deep and 3 feet outside of the canopy of the plant helps to cut down on surface evaporation, shade the roots from summer heat, cut down on weeds and eventually begin to feed the soil and the plants naturally. In high humidity regions of Zones 7 and 8, it is recommended that you pull back the mulch in the winter months. Look to place your order as soon as possible to ensure availability. Many new fresh bare root plants are available the first part of the winter often ready for order as early as October with delivery beginning in January (weather permitting). Often fruit and shade trees are over wintered in containers for fall and winter planting. Check to see if your favorite variety is currently available for planting.  Take advantage of Mother Nature’s generosity. She’ll provide free rain and snow in fall and winter. Plant in fall and winter to allow your plant the chance to develop a well-established root system that it will need before the stresses of the summer come around. Plant in fall and winter to enjoy a healthy, vigorous plant going into the spring and summer months. 

Here are the Top 20 “Thriller” plants to adorn your front entrance this fall. Decorate them for the holiday season and enjoy them all winter long! 20 Castle Wall Blue Holly Pyramidal Topiary Zones 5 - 7 19 Castle Wall® Blue Holly Zones 5 - 7 18 Soft Serve® False Cypress Zones 5 - 7 17 Green Mountain Boxwood Zones 5 - 8 16 Italian Cypress Tree Zones 7 -10 15 Castle Spire® Blue Holly Zones 5 - 7 14 China Boy Meets China Girl Holly Combo Zones 4 - 9  13 Blue Arrow Juniper Zones 4 - 8 12 Oakland™ Holly Pom Pom Topiary Zones 6 - 9 11 Castle Spire Blue Holly Tree Form Topiary Zones 5 - 7 10 Needlepoint Holly Zones 7 - 9 9 Spartan Juniper Zones 4 - 9 8 Baker's Colorado Blue Spruce Zones 3 - 7 7 North Pole® Arborvitae Zones 3 - 7   6 Blue Princess Holly Zones 5 - 9   5 Green Velvet Boxwood Zones 5 - 9   4 Dwarf Alberta Spruce Pom Pom Topiary Zones 3 - 6 3 Spartan Juniper Spiral Topiary Zones 4 - 9  2 Sky Pencil Holly Zones 5 - 9 1 Dwarf Alberta Spruce Spiral Topiary Zones 3 - 6   Tips and Tricks For Successfully Overwintering Container Plants To use these plants in fall and winter container gardens, simply keep the plant in its nursery container. In fall, dig a hole in the dirt of your decorative pot and just drop it into place. No need to remove it from the nursery pot! Just place mulch over the top of the roots. Keep it watered as needed based on your growing zone. In Zones 3 – 6, water until the dirt freezes. In Zones 7 – 11, use the right variety and keep watered all season long. Enjoy it all fall season with gourds, pumpkins, ornamental Kate and peppers. Then, decorate it for the Holidays! Have fun and show off your creativity. In spring, add Pussy Willow branches and Pansies. Once the growing season starts, dig up the nursery pot and plant your “Thriller” out in your landscape. Or, gift it to the neighbor who has been eyeing it all season long! Get more expert tips and tricks on Winter Outdoor Container Gardens

If you have trouble with water runoff damaging your garden, or you just want to do your part to protect your local rivers, then you'll want to explore creating a rain garden. Rain gardens are a beautiful and practical way to control storm water runoff. They are simply a garden planted in a depression at the base of a slope that collects and holds rainwater, allowing it to slowly seep into the ground, rather than flow into roads and waterways. These are not ponds or even swampy areas. In fact, a well-made rain garden is designed to drain excess water in less than two days (which is good news if mosquitoes are a problem). They are so effective, and so beneficial for stormwater management and improving water quality, that some homes can earn tax breaks for creating one. Benefits of Rain Gardens The primary benefit is its ability to control urban runoff , especially during major rain storms. Urban runoff comes from our roofs, driveways, lawns, sidewalks and roads, and is full of pollutants like pet waste, fertilizers and pesticides. Left unchecked, this urban runoff can contribute to damaging flash floods and polluted watersheds. Build a rain garden to slow the polluted water from reaching storm sewers. Officially known as “bioretention areas,” these were first introduced to developments in the 1990s in an effort to save money on water runoff treatments. Studies on these early rain gardens showed an impressive 75–80% reduction in stormwater runoff during an average rain storm. Here are some other amazing benefits: They prevent erosion. Water runoff is caught and absorbed before it has a chance to cause damage. They are beautiful. Full of sedges, grasses and flowers, rain gardens have a lovely cottage garden appearance. They save money. They cost a fraction of the cost of a typical lawn to plant and require very little water. They’re easy to landscape. Low-maintenance by design, you'llprimarily using tough, native plants that can handle both dry and wet periods. They protect your home. Rain gardens collect excess rain water away from your home, preventing issues like wet basements, mosquito-breeding puddles and foundation issues. They support wildlife. Birds, insects and even amphibians can call a rain garden home. One of the greatest things about rain gardens is how easy they are to create and landscape. In fact, Mother Nature does most of the work for you. Elements of a Rain Garden Swale or piping, to guide water runoff A slope down to the rain garden - a 2% grade is ideal Decorative stones and boulders Berm to hold the runoff Deep rooted plants, ideally suited to a rain garden environment Where to Put a Rain Garden In order to capture the most runoff, it needs to be strategically placed. When scouting for the perfect place, look for a natural depression, or low-lying area of your property where stormwater flows and pools. Just make sure you place it well away from your house; more than 10 feet away is ideal. No matter what, do not put your rain garden over a septic tank or utility lines, and always call 811 before you start digging. Plant Selection Rain Garden Planting Zones The best plants for rain gardens actually vary depending on where you plant them. Every rain garden has three planting zones: Center - where water pools and soaks into the soil. Water-loving plants that can handle soggy soil do best here. Slopes/sides - a little drier, but still susceptible to pooling water. Versatile plants that can take both dry and soggy soil will thrive here. Top - the driest area, that needs deep-rooted drought tolerant plants to hold together and keep the berm in place. It's best to plant plugs or small plants, not from seed, which easily washes away. Here is a list to get you started. Remember, check your local USDA growing zones, as well as your average annual rainfall. Some plants suggested for slopes in a wetter climate, for example, may do better in the center for drier climates. Best Plants for Center Iris  Swamp milkweed  Fern  Hosta  Lobelia  Bleeding heart  Best Plants for Slopes Bee balm Aster  Silky dogwood  Wild geranium  Best Plants for Top Grasses  Sedges  Buckeye  Hydrangea   Rain gardens are a truly win-win landscaping project that benefit everyone, from the homeowner, to the community at large. Incorporate one into your own garden and enjoy the many benefits. Happy Gardening!