One of the best kept secrets of gardening is fall and winter planting. Take advantage of an “old farmer’s trick” and get your plants in the ground at the end of the season. Why does fall and winter planting work so well? The combination of warmer soil and colder air forces your plant to focus only on producing new roots in the fall and winter, which gives your plants a jump start on spring. Your new plant won’t make flower buds, flowers or seeds if it’s planted late in the season. Growing those critical roots helps your new plant get itself established in your landscape. And that is just what you want! Planting in fall through winter allows the roots to develop and affords a head start going into the active growing season in spring. Our horticultural team has put together great tips and tricks for success by Growing Zone.  FIND YOUR ZONE  In Zones 7 – 10, Fall Is Prime Planting Time  When high temperatures start dropping for fall, you’ll want to purchase and plant your trees, shrubs and perennials. Get them in the ground before you miss out on free water from winter rains.  You’ll love saving money on water required to establish new plants. In Zones 7 – 10, planting in fall and or early winter helps your plants establish their root system. This enables your plant to withstand both fluctuating spring temperatures and the early summer hot and dry conditions. Add a good mulch in the late spring and your plant is off to the best start one could hope for. Regional Overview Temperate Zones 7 and 8 such as middle Washington, Oregon and Western Nevada are beginning to get cold, but the ground is still workable. Get your plants in the ground in fall and early winter.  Sometimes the only problem to fall planting is limited availability. Today though, Nature Hills offers year-round availability and the fall availability gets better each season.  See Zones 3 – 6 information if you get a rare freeze.  Dry Zone 7 regions of middle Arizona and New Mexico, the lower Panhandle of Texas and much of Oklahoma and Arkansas are all known for dry fluctuating spring temperatures. This can be hard on establishing plants early in the spring. Plant in fall or winter to get a big head’s start on developing a root system that will protect your new plants in the unpredictable spring season. Humid Zones 7 and 8 in many of the southeastern states such as Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia and South Carolina have wide temperature fluctuations in the spring and early summer. All of these areas benefit from fall and winter plantings to establish root systems. A healthy plant in the spring will help to avoid some spring diseases and give your plants a vigorous head start going into the summer. In these areas, it is possible to plant all throughout the winter months.  Zones 9 and 10 include areas like California and Southern Nevada and South Eastern Texas. These are prime fall and winter planning areas, where water is more expensive or has a higher pH. Planting in spring during the active growing period requires frequent watering, which can really add up.  Getting plants established in areas where the water has a pH of 8.5 or higher can pose problems.  Plant in fall to develop root systems and you’ll benefit from the free fall and winter rains that are most often pH neutral or slightly acid! Both container grown plants and bare root can be planted directly into the ground as soon as they are purchased throughout the winter months in these areas.  Special Considerations for Fall and Winter Planting in Cold Winter Zones 3 - 6 Trust us, the experts at Nature Hills have planted trees in the middle of snowstorms. While not exactly “fun”, the plants did just fine and flowered the following spring. There are real advantages to fall and winter planting, even in the cold winter Zones of 3 – 6. As long as the ground has not yet frozen, you can still plant! If possible, it’s a good idea to “pre-dig” your holes for your new plants from Nature Hills. You’ll be ready to go once they arrive. Holes can be dug several weeks in advance. Simply mound up the dirt next to hole and cover it with straw or even a tarp, as needed. Gardeners who plan ahead save themselves hassles! Ground Conditions Overview Every day can bring fluctuating ground temperatures. When you get your shipment from Nature Hills, determine how much frost there is in your ground. Can you get your shovel into the ground? It’s best to get your plant in the ground right away. Use several trips with a watering can, if your hoses have already been winterized. If there is a thin crust on top of the soil that can easily be broken through, use your shovel to break through that crust. Dig a hole that will accommodate the root system, and plant that plant. Make sure to water the soil completely once you are finished. If the soil did freeze before you had a chance to plant your new plants, you could try pouring a bucket of warm water on the spot that you are planning to dig.  Wait a few minutes to see if it thaws and you can still plant into that soil.  Water well to settle the soil in around the roots. Add mulch to cover the top of the soil. Expecting a warm forecast after a cold snap? You might want to wait and see. If the weather does allow it, break through the frozen ground and get those plants put in the ground. Water them in well. Storing Plants in Zones 3 - 6 If the ground is frozen, and there is no way to dig a hole, you can store your plants very successfully. It’s easy, just follow these steps.  Storing a Container Plant Grab a large garbage bag and open the box in an unheated garage. Take your plants out of the box and water the soil well, allowing the excess to drain out.  Place the plant pot in a large garbage bag to keep the soil and pot inside of the plastic bag. Leaving the top uncovered.  Leave inside your unheated garage or unheated porch and you should have complete success overwintering these dormant plants until they can be installed in the spring.  Please note that Lilacs and Viburnums do not like wet soil, so if the soil in the container is moist on arrival, there is no need to add more water.   Storing Bare Root Plants Grab a large garbage bag. Take your plants out of the box on your unheated garage or porch and remove the small plastic bag from around the wrapped roots. You’ll keep any packing material around the roots but remove the plastic bag. Next, soak the packing material wrapped around the roots in water and allow the excess to drain out.  Then place the wrapped roots inside of your garbage bag.  Allow the plant tops to be open and uncovered. When you are done, the packing materials and roots will be the only thing inside of the garbage bag.   Set those bare root plants inside of your unheated garage or unheated porch. You should have complete success overwintering these plants until they can be installed in the spring.   Additional Tips and Tricks for Plant Selection and Planting It is important to select the right plant for the right location. This means looking to see that it is recommended for your USDA Zone and the sun or shade requirements for the plant are satisfied in the location you would like to plant it in. Too little sun and the plant may have trouble growing, flowering or producing fruit. Too much sun and the plant can sunburn or wilt. Study the Plant Highlights on every product page to learn what the growing requirements are. You can also filter by your specific site conditions and see what your options are.  Most plants need a well-drained soil. It’s critical to choose a location with good drainage.  Doing a drainage test can help to determine if there is a reason for concern.  Dig a hold 12 inches wide by 12 inches deep in the location you want to plant. Fill it with water and time how long it takes the first filling to drain out, then fill it again and time that second drainage. If the second filling takes longer than 3 hours to drain off, you may have a drainage issue.  Where poor drainage is suspected, build a raised bed or mound to 24 inches above the lay of the land. The idea is to develop a portion of the root above the soil line so the entire root is never completely under water during the winter when the amount of water your plant receives is out of your control. Without good drainage, many plant roots suffer from poor oxygen penetration and can rot and eventually die.  Mulching a plant at least 3 to 4 inches deep and 3 feet outside of the canopy of the plant helps to cut down on surface evaporation, shade the roots from summer heat, cut down on weeds and eventually begin to feed the soil and the plants naturally. In high humidity regions of Zones 7 and 8, it is recommended that you pull back the mulch in the winter months. Look to place your order as soon as possible to ensure availability. Many new fresh bare root plants are available the first part of the winter often ready for order as early as October with delivery beginning in January (weather permitting). Often fruit and shade trees are over wintered in containers for fall and winter planting. Check to see if your favorite variety is currently available for planting.  Take advantage of Mother Nature’s generosity. She’ll provide free rain and snow in fall and winter. Plant in fall and winter to allow your plant the chance to develop a well-established root system that it will need before the stresses of the summer come around. Plant in fall and winter to enjoy a healthy, vigorous plant going into the spring and summer months. 

Here are the Top 20 “Thriller” plants to adorn your front entrance this fall. Decorate them for the holiday season and enjoy them all winter long! 20 Castle Wall Blue Holly Pyramidal Topiary Zones 5 - 7 19 Castle Wall® Blue Holly Zones 5 - 7 18 Soft Serve® False Cypress Zones 5 - 7 17 Green Mountain Boxwood Zones 5 - 8 16 Italian Cypress Tree Zones 7 -10 15 Castle Spire® Blue Holly Zones 5 - 7 14 China Boy Meets China Girl Holly Combo Zones 4 - 9  13 Blue Arrow Juniper Zones 4 - 8 12 Oakland™ Holly Pom Pom Topiary Zones 6 - 9 11 Castle Spire Blue Holly Tree Form Topiary Zones 5 - 7 10 Needlepoint Holly Zones 7 - 9 9 Spartan Juniper Zones 4 - 9 8 Baker's Colorado Blue Spruce Zones 3 - 7 7 North Pole® Arborvitae Zones 3 - 7   6 Blue Princess Holly Zones 5 - 9   5 Green Velvet Boxwood Zones 5 - 9   4 Dwarf Alberta Spruce Pom Pom Topiary Zones 3 - 6 3 Spartan Juniper Spiral Topiary Zones 4 - 9  2 Sky Pencil Holly Zones 5 - 9 1 Dwarf Alberta Spruce Spiral Topiary Zones 3 - 6   Tips and Tricks For Successfully Overwintering Container Plants To use these plants in fall and winter container gardens, simply keep the plant in its nursery container. In fall, dig a hole in the dirt of your decorative pot and just drop it into place. No need to remove it from the nursery pot! Just place mulch over the top of the roots. Keep it watered as needed based on your growing zone. In Zones 3 – 6, water until the dirt freezes. In Zones 7 – 11, use the right variety and keep watered all season long. Enjoy it all fall season with gourds, pumpkins, ornamental Kate and peppers. Then, decorate it for the Holidays! Have fun and show off your creativity. In spring, add Pussy Willow branches and Pansies. Once the growing season starts, dig up the nursery pot and plant your “Thriller” out in your landscape. Or, gift it to the neighbor who has been eyeing it all season long! Get more expert tips and tricks on Winter Outdoor Container Gardens

If you have trouble with water runoff damaging your garden, or you just want to do your part to protect your local rivers, then you'll want to explore creating a rain garden. Rain gardens are a beautiful and practical way to control storm water runoff. They are simply a garden planted in a depression at the base of a slope that collects and holds rainwater, allowing it to slowly seep into the ground, rather than flow into roads and waterways. These are not ponds or even swampy areas. In fact, a well-made rain garden is designed to drain excess water in less than two days (which is good news if mosquitoes are a problem). They are so effective, and so beneficial for stormwater management and improving water quality, that some homes can earn tax breaks for creating one. Benefits of Rain Gardens The primary benefit is its ability to control urban runoff , especially during major rain storms. Urban runoff comes from our roofs, driveways, lawns, sidewalks and roads, and is full of pollutants like pet waste, fertilizers and pesticides. Left unchecked, this urban runoff can contribute to damaging flash floods and polluted watersheds. Build a rain garden to slow the polluted water from reaching storm sewers. Officially known as “bioretention areas,” these were first introduced to developments in the 1990s in an effort to save money on water runoff treatments. Studies on these early rain gardens showed an impressive 75–80% reduction in stormwater runoff during an average rain storm. Here are some other amazing benefits: They prevent erosion. Water runoff is caught and absorbed before it has a chance to cause damage. They are beautiful. Full of sedges, grasses and flowers, rain gardens have a lovely cottage garden appearance. They save money. They cost a fraction of the cost of a typical lawn to plant and require very little water. They’re easy to landscape. Low-maintenance by design, you'llprimarily using tough, native plants that can handle both dry and wet periods. They protect your home. Rain gardens collect excess rain water away from your home, preventing issues like wet basements, mosquito-breeding puddles and foundation issues. They support wildlife. Birds, insects and even amphibians can call a rain garden home. One of the greatest things about rain gardens is how easy they are to create and landscape. In fact, Mother Nature does most of the work for you. Elements of a Rain Garden Swale or piping, to guide water runoff A slope down to the rain garden - a 2% grade is ideal Decorative stones and boulders Berm to hold the runoff Deep rooted plants, ideally suited to a rain garden environment Where to Put a Rain Garden In order to capture the most runoff, it needs to be strategically placed. When scouting for the perfect place, look for a natural depression, or low-lying area of your property where stormwater flows and pools. Just make sure you place it well away from your house; more than 10 feet away is ideal. No matter what, do not put your rain garden over a septic tank or utility lines, and always call 811 before you start digging. Plant Selection Rain Garden Planting Zones The best plants for rain gardens actually vary depending on where you plant them. Every rain garden has three planting zones: Center - where water pools and soaks into the soil. Water-loving plants that can handle soggy soil do best here. Slopes/sides - a little drier, but still susceptible to pooling water. Versatile plants that can take both dry and soggy soil will thrive here. Top - the driest area, that needs deep-rooted drought tolerant plants to hold together and keep the berm in place. It's best to plant plugs or small plants, not from seed, which easily washes away. Here is a list to get you started. Remember, check your local USDA growing zones, as well as your average annual rainfall. Some plants suggested for slopes in a wetter climate, for example, may do better in the center for drier climates. Best Plants for Center Iris  Swamp milkweed  Fern  Hosta  Lobelia  Bleeding heart  Best Plants for Slopes Bee balm Aster  Silky dogwood  Wild geranium  Best Plants for Top Grasses  Sedges  Buckeye  Hydrangea   Rain gardens are a truly win-win landscaping project that benefit everyone, from the homeowner, to the community at large. Incorporate one into your own garden and enjoy the many benefits. Happy Gardening!

If your landscape has mature shade trees, faces north, or only receives direct sun a few hours a day, you're on the right blog post! Read on to discover how to design the perfect shade garden and fall in love with your low-light backyard again. Think shade gardens are colorless and boring? Think again! A carefully planned full shade garden can be just as interesting as a sunny garden, with the added benefit of being enjoyably cool during warm summer days. Garden design for shady spots can vary quite a bit, depending on the type of shade you have. You'll also need to understand the micro-climates found in your yard. Types of Shade First, determine the quality of your shade. This will determine which plants may be suited to add to your design. Dense shade is cast by taller, low-branches evergreens like Pine and Hemlock. Smaller, low-branched trees like Dogwood and Redbud allow more light, but the shade they cast on smaller perennials and low shrubs may still be considered deep. In this situation, you can look for seasonal opportunities to add color. If your trees are deciduous, try planting spring bulbs that can flower before the leaves unfurl. Once the threat of frost is past, bring out your pots of tropical houseplants - or add tender bulbs each year - to add color and interest. Medium shade is found under trees with high, widely spaced branches. There is still plenty of light nearby, but no direct sun. The same condition can be found on the north side of homes. Lots of skyshine, but no direct sun. Many sun loving plants will live in medium shade - even roses - but they may not bloom. You may have found this to be the case in your yard, if you have trees that have matured up around older plantings. You can move your full sun plants and look for perennials and small shrubs that prefer part shade. Landscapes in shade can be improved into a restful oasis. Another option many people consider is to prune the mature trees to allow more sun to reach the lower levels. Take out a few of the principal branches, or limb them up by removing lower branches. Partial shade is also partial sun. These are areas that receive direct sunlight at least 3 hours a day. Narrow trees such as Poplars cast intermittent shade, and trees with tiny leaves - such as Shademaster Honeylocust - cast light shade. Does your yard receive abundant rainfall, or experience dry conditions? Moist soils in shade conditions provide you an opportunity to create shade-filled woodland glens. Dry soils in shade conditions can still provide beauty and ease of maintenance with plants like Fragrant Valley Sweet Box. The key to success is growing what works for your space. Understanding the light requirements of plants is easy with Nature Hills's Plant Highlights listed on every product page. You can also easily filter your results to find plants that work for your specific Growing Zone. Shade Garden Design Tips It can be helpful to start by thinking in terms of layers. Begin with the tall shade canopy of your largest trees, then add an understory layer of smaller accent trees, such as Japanese Maples. Next comes large and smaller shrubs, then non-woody perennials and finally to the ground level groundcovers. Here are some tried and true tips to achieve a marvelous get-a-way in unexpected places: Focus on Foliage, Texture and Color Take your shady garden bed to the next level by incorporating different textures and colors. Ferns and plants with variegated leaves will quickly add interest. Rely on foliage plants that work in shady areas to carry your design through the summer. Plant textures range from rough to fine. Keep the contrast of textures in mind as you select your plants. Rough textured plants will anchor the design. Open, airy plants will draw the eye along and visually lighten the planting. Even green has different shades that should be considered when planning the flow of your Shade Garden. Add spring color from bulbs and shrubs, rely on foliage in summer, and enjoy the contrast in texture all winter long. Cut Back on the Lawn Even the most shade-tolerant lawn grasses can look patchy and unsightly in a full shade garden. Instead of “forcing it,” replace your lawn in full shade areas with some nice landscaping using pavers, shade tolerant shrubs, or shade-loving groundcovers for a lawn-like look and feel. Create a Relaxation Zone What’s the point of designing a shade garden if you can’t sit out and enjoy it? Add another dimension to your shade garden by putting in a hammock or garden bench with some colorful cushions. It will create the perfect space to relax with some iced tea and a good book. Add a Water Feature The nice thing about a full shade garden is you don’t have to worry as much about water evaporating or heating up in the sun. Your shady garden is therefore the perfect place to install a water fountain, a small garden pond, or even a simple bird bath. Don’t be surprised if it becomes a magnet for thirsty backyard birds looking to escape the summer heat! Shady water garden are an oasis during the hot summer. Incorporate Mirrors and Garden Art A well-placed mirror will brighten up even the shadiest places in your garden and will even make your garden space appear bigger. Add even more interest with some garden art. From urns to orbs, a nice art piece will help draw the eye and fill in any unsightly or bare areas. Perennials that Thrive in Shade Some of our favorite plants are made for the shade! Fall in love with your shady garden again by adding a few of these low-light shade plant performers: Hostas Hostas are a shade gardener’s go-to perennial, and for good reason! Their beautiful broad leaves give off a lush, tropical vibe, and they come in a wide array of colors and patterns. They also have some beautiful, often fragrant, pale flowers. Hostas are extremely easy to care for in shady spots, and adaptable to many climates, as long as they’re kept out of the sun. Try varieties like ‘Patriot’ or ‘Halcyon’ for a unique look. Generally hardy in zones 3-9.  Heuchera (Coral Bells) Vying for the top “shade garden plant” spot are Heucheras, also known as “Coral Bells.” These shade loving perennials add color in shady areas. They come in an even greater variety of foliage colors and textures, and their delicate bell-shaped flowers are beautiful too! Heucheras are very easy to maintain, and their compact stature makes them perfect for filling in empty spaces. Plant your Heuchera towards the front of your garden beds where you can easily enjoy their pretty colors and flowers. Generally hardy in zones 3-9.  Ferns It’s impossible to describe a shady garden without mentioning Ferns! These plants are known for their tropical appeal, and fortunately many of them are also very cold hardy. Ferns are perfect for adding soft texture to the shady garden, and they thrive in soggy, wet soil. Try the very cold tolerant ‘Ostrich Fern’ (zones 3-9), or the brightly colored ‘Autumn Brilliance’ fern (zones 5-9).  Astilbe With their brightly colored, feathery plumed flowers, Astilbe are an ideal choice for shady gardens, wherever you need a pop of color. These flashy perennials bloom all summer long, and come in a wide variety of colors, from pure white to bright orange, pink and even purple. Astilbe are widely adaptable to different soil conditions and can be grown just about any place where they receive enough shade. Hardy in zones 4-8.  Groundcovers for Shade Periwinkle (Vinca) The aptly-named Periwinkle is a pretty vining groundcover that blooms in pretty shades of light blue and purple. They look delicate, but periwinkle are very drought tolerant and cold hardy, and will quickly fill in empty areas where you plant them, like a living mulch.  Lamium A wide array of patterns and textures make these small flowering plants incredibly ornamental. Lamium will thrive even in dry shade and quickly spread to cover ground. You'll appreciate this "living carpet" edging the beds of your shade garden.  Shrubs for Shade Azalea and Rhododendrons Azaleas and other Rhododendrons are the ideal shrub for a shady garden. Unlike most flowering shrubs, these plants thrive in full shade. And when they bloom in early-mid spring, they will dazzle you with their colorful displays of pink and purple flowers. Even when not in bloom, these shrubs are very attractive with dark green, glossy foliage and a rounded habit. Generally hardy in Zones 6-9. Golden Guinea Kerria Kerria is a flowering shrub that deserves to be a lot more popular! It is sometimes known as “Japanese Rose” or “Easter Rose.” These shrubs are wonderfully fragrant when they burst into bloom in mid-spring, and their bright yellow flowers will brighten up any garden in full or partial shade. Kerria stems stay green all winter, adding a bit of interest during the cold months. Hardy in Zones 4-9.  Red Twigged Dogwood If you are looking for year-round appeal in your shade garden, the Red Twigged Dogwood is the ideal choice. These pretty shrubs show off white flowers in early spring, followed by light green foliage that turns bright yellow in autumn. In winter, they show off with bright red stems that seem to glow against the snow. Dogwood shrubs are very easy to care for, and thrive in full or partial shade. Hardy in Zones 3-9.  Yews Available in a wide variety of shapes, Yews are a wonderful plant to give balance to your shade garden design. Long-lived and easy care, these workhorses are popular for good reason. Generally hardy in Zones 4 - 7.  Call our plant experts at 888-864-7663 if you have questions about plants that will work in your design. Or, try your local Ag Extension office, where they'll know the ins and outs of your local climate. Enjoy!  

Many of us struggle to grow a beautiful (but high maintenance) garden. Between work, family and other responsibilities, it’s simply hard to find the time. Rather than let your garden fall by the wayside, consider making some small changes to save you time and hassle in the long run. Use these low maintenance landscaping tips, so you can spend more time enjoying your garden, and less time maintaining it. Low Maintenance Landscaping Tips & Strategies Use mulch Mulch is a must-have for a successful, low maintenance garden. It looks great, and gives garden beds a nice, finished look, but it does so much more: Mulch helps prevent weeds Mulch acts like a blanket, insulating plants from extreme heat and cold Mulch keeps moisture in the soil, saving water Use wood, stone & other natural elements Adding “zero-scaping” elements to the garden provides great structure and interest - and requires absolutely no effort to maintain. Try incorporating flagstone pathways, gravel “rivers,” and accent boulders or driftwood to fill in empty space or hide hard-to-grow areas. Plant container gardens An easy and fun way to add lots of color and charm is to use containers throughout your landscape. A time-tested formula for success is to include a tall “Thriller” in the center, surround it with smaller and wider “Fillers”, then tuck in trailing “Spillers” vining plants at the edges to soften the look. You can easily personalize the look by choosing a uniform palette of containers. Modern gardens rely on repeating industrial style containers in tall squares or rectangular shapes. Funky, eclectic cottage gardens can use a collected hodge-podge of colors and styles. Put them on drip irrigation, and you won’t have to fuss with them beyond planting them up. Have fun with this! Plant plenty of perennials Unlike annuals, which look great for a short time but die at the end of every season, perennials come back year after year, and they look better over time. Buy them once, and enjoy them for years to come, no extra planting or buying required. Stagger flowering times Enjoy beautiful blooms from spring through fall by planting flowers that bloom at different times. Start off the season with spring bulbs, such as Hyacinths and Daffodils, followed by Cherry Blossom trees and Roses. In summer, Hydrangeas steal the show, followed by fall-blooming Asters. It’s a low-maintenance way to enjoy beautiful color most of the year! Pick plants suited to your area and garden If you want a truly low maintenance garden, you have to work with Mother Nature. Only use plants that thrive in your area. Take your local USDA growing zone, annual rainfall, and weather patterns into account, and base your plant selections on that. In other words, if it doesn’t work well, don’t force it.  Xeriscaping is a water-wise way of gardening in hot, dry climates. Choose the right plants, like Succulents, and you'll be grateful! Hydrangeas, for example, thrive in many gardens, but they struggle in dry, cold climates. Trying to grow them in these environments would take a great deal of work, and they are less likely to survive in the long term. Stick with something else, like Snowball Viburnum, that flowers beautifully with half the effort in more arid climates. Planting the right tree or shrub for your climate isn’t enough for a low-maintenance landscape; you also have to plant them in the right spot. Get to know your garden’s shady, sunny, and part-shade areas, and match the plant to the area. Don’t forget to test your soil too! Filter your search results by your Growing Zone and sun exposure. Plants have different needs for sun conditions that must be met for them to flourish. When in doubt, contact the local garden experts at your nearest County Extension Office. They provide excellent free advice on common soil, weather and common pest conditions, and will let you know which plants will thrive, and which plants won’t. Water properly One of the most common reasons garden plants die is due to improper watering. Watering issues generally boil down to: Watering infrequently Watering too often Watering too little, too often Improper drainage Watering at the wrong time of day With so many ways to water wrong, it’s no surprise that so many plants struggle in their first two years. Taking care of water-stressed plants can be time consuming. Learn how to water properly with this how-to article written by our experts Embrace a casual style If you want a low maintenance landscape, you might have to modify your preferred style. If formal, clipped hedges float your boat, plan to be out there shearing and trimming several times a year.If you can get in the right mindset, this could be an exercise in mindful meditation. Otherwise, this becomes a monumental yardwork chore. Instead, get a looser, natural style by using Boxwood, Hedge Cotoneaster and Privet shrubs without pruning them. To establish new casual hedges in this style, look at our Plant Highlights on every product page. Subtract two feet from the largest number listed in the mature spread of the plant. That’s how far apart you’ll plant an untrimmed hedge, measuring from the center of one shrub to the center of the next. The hedge will grow together, and the branches will touch, but you can plant a bit further apart if you won’t be tightly pruning or shearing them. Give yourself the gift of time, without losing any of the benefits of a beautiful hedge. Popular Low Maintenance Plants Let’s face it: some plants are just fussy. They require hours of fertilizing, pruning, deadheading and more. Save yourself time by planting some of these hassle-free shrubs and perennials. Remember, not all of these plants are low maintenance in every garden. Check the Plant Highlights on every product page to see if they will work in your unique yard. Popular Low Maintenance Landscaping Shrubs Dogwood Dogwood is one of the most appealing and effortless shrubs available. Able to withstand extremely cold temperatures, it’s a fabulous addition to cool-climate landscapes. What makes Dogwood extra special is its year-round appeal: delicate white flowers emerge in early spring, followed by lush green growth in summer, bright yellow-orange leaves in fall, and - finally - brightly colored stems in winter that almost glow against the snow. You can grow Dogwood as a small tree, a stand-alone specimen, or even as a hedge.  Spirea If you want a low maintenance shrub that pollinators love, Spirea is a must-grow! These tough little shrubs thrive in hot, sunny summers, and come in several beautiful colors and forms. They bloom from summer through late fall - perfect for a splash of color after other flowers fade.  Lilac Lilacs are one of the toughest shrubs you can find. They don’t do well in warm, southern climates, but they thrive in cooler areas. These shrubs are long-lived (100+ years), and are virtually indestructible once established. And the spring fragrance is just to die for. Rose of Sharon These grow in many areas across the country, and offer easy-breezy style. With flowers that resemble hibiscus, Rose of Sharon brighten up your mid-summer landscape. Use these as a privacy screen, or fun single specimen near your front door or patio. Juniper For the ultimate in low maintenance, select improved Juniper shrubs. They'll provide structure and evergreen color year round. Give Junipers the space they need to grow to their mature height and width. They are perfect for a rustic style or modern and contemporary designs.  Popular Low Maintenance Landscaping Perennials Landscape Shrub Roses Yes, you can have roses in your low-maintenance garden. Just select one of the incredible, improved Landscape Shrub Roses. They are pest resistant, drought tolerant, and perfect for beginners. You can find dozens of varieties, so it’s easy to find the perfect one for your landscape.  Coneflower (Echinacea) Prized for its medicinal qualities, Coneflower is a native plant that is also known for durability and ease-of-care. These beautiful perennials are drought tolerant, and widely adaptable to many different soil types. They even come in a variety of colors, from standard purple, to white, green, yellow and orange. Sedum (Stonecrop) For gorgeous fall flowers and simple maintenance, you can’t go wrong with Sedum. These succulent perennials are extremely hardy, and well-behaved in the garden. Plant one or more in a sunny perennial bed, or along a pathway where you can enjoy their striking color. Quick Low Maintenance Landscaping Tips: Use straight edges to make mowing your lawn faster and easier Group plants with similar water needs together If you garden in containers, use bigger pots which require less watering Grow flowers that don’t require deadheading Invest in an irrigation system to save on time and water A low maintenance garden doesn’t have to be boring… and a gorgeous garden doesn’t have to be high maintenance! Start applying a few of these strategies, plant smart, and soon you can enjoy a garden that has maximum impact with minimal effort. Happy planting!