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#ProPlantTips on Planting Fruit Trees

#ProPlantTips on Planting Fruit Trees - Nature Hills Nursery

Whitney Laritson |

There’s nothing more rewarding than growing and harvesting your own fruit. But, before the farm-fresh produce hits the dinner table, and even before the fruit starts developing, you’re going to have to tackle the daunting task of planting your young fruit tree.

There are some fairly easy steps you can follow in order to plant fruit trees successfully.

It really is that easy! But knowing the ins and outs of each step can make or break your tree’s chances of success. Let’s dive in, shall we?

Planting a Fruit Tree Infographic

1. Choose Your Tree Wisely

I know it’s tempting to pick the most scrumptious-looking fruit in the supermarket and say, “That’s the tree I want to grow.” The fruit isles in the grocery store are a great place to get inspiration, but when it comes to picking the exact cultivar, do future you a favor and quickly search which trees are most successful in your region.

You’ll find that some fruit trees grow best in hot, dry climates while others need a minimum number of hours spent in below-freezing temperatures.

If you live in the deep south, you might consider fig or pomegranate trees. These are going to be fruits that will flourish in the relentless heat and don’t need chill hours.

Those of you in zones 9 and higher can pick from a number of choices such as peaches, nectarines, apricots and SOME apple varieties (We suggest trying Pink Lady in the higher zones).

If you’re dwelling in regions of the country that are regularly hit by harsh winters, your best bet will be to pick from apple, plum and pear trees.

Another consideration is whether you have room for two trees. If so, then feel free to pick a variety that needs a pollination partner. If you’re hoping to just have one tree, you’ll want to shop around for a self-pollinating fruit tree.

2. Select Your Location

Next to selecting the tree, deciding on on your location is the most important factor in determining your success.

It’s a good idea to test your soil using a testing kit but it’s not imperative as long as you have a clear understanding of whether your soil is well-draining or not.

If you have well-drained soil, then you’re free to move on to the next step. If you don’t have well-drained soil, you’ll want to either mound up a pile of native soil from elsewhere in your yard to about 18 inches above the soil line or find a new spot.

If you’d like to know more about determining the drainage in your soil you can check out our blog on it here.

Drainage shouldn’t be your only consideration. Making sure your newly planted tree has good air circulation is important as well. There are plenty of reasons why, learn more about them here.

3. Dig The Hole

This part is pretty easy in theory. (of course, anyone who has dug a fairly large hole knows the physical act is no walk in the park.)

When you’re ready to start digging your hole, you’ll want to have a rough idea of how big your tree’s root ball is. The bottom of the hole should be no lower than the roots extend and wide enough to support the entire root system.

Accommodating the entire root system means digging your fruit tree hole twice as wide as it is deep. If you’re digging 12 inches down, you’ll want to dig your hole two feet wide in diameter.

But how big should I dig the hole if I don’t have the tree in front of me?

If you’re getting a head start on the labor, you might find yourself digging before the tree is there for measurements. In these cases, we suggest digging as big of a hole as possible. You can always backfill with soil if it turns out the hole is too big.

4. Remove the Tree From Its Container

Yes, it seems straight forward but we just wanted to mention a couple of things. The first is that once you’ve removed your tree from its plastic container, you’ll want to gently tease its roots apart.

Having loose roots will make the next step easier, we promise.

5. Place the Tree in the Hole and Backfill With Soil

After digging, you might be tempted to throw the tree in the hole planting hole, pack in extra dirt, and be done with it. But there’s a little more to it.

planting infographic

When planting bareroot trees, you’ll want to make a mound in the center of your hole and place the tree on top of that mount with the roots spreading out evenly across the mound. This helps keep the root growth separate and growing in different directions. No need if you’ve got a container-grown tree.

While situating the roots, keep an eye on the base of the tree. It should sit no lower than where it was originally planted. If you’re planting a bareroot tree, keep an eye on the graft at the base of the trunk. You should plant your tree with the graft above ground level, and the widest part of the trunk (the root flare) should also be above the soil line.

Once you’ve got your tree placed, go ahead and cover the roots with soil and pat down well.

6. Water Thoroughly

Take a moment to step back and admire your hard work. You planted a tree, nicely done! The job isn’t finished yet though. Like all newly planted trees, you’ll want to grab the hose and water well.

This archives two things. The first being it gives your tree a nice long drink, which it’ll appreciate after being planted. The second is the water will help to get rid of any remaining air pockets. Air underground near the roots can cause all kinds of problems and will generally make your tree unhappy.

Slowly saturate the soil with the hose running at about half rate with no nozzle. As the entire root area soaks, the dirt may settle and you might need to add a bit more soil in some areas.

7. Add Mulch

Your first instinct might be to reach for the fertilizer. We’re going to gently encourage you instead to reach for a bag of mulch.

Your fruit tree doesn’t need any kind of additives to the soil but a layer of mulch will help maintain the moisture and buffer the soil temperatures, keeping roots cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.

Our general rule of thumb is to add a 3-4 inch layer of arborist wood chips over the roots starting about an inch away from the base of the tree. Works like a charm!

Ok, now you can step back and admire a job well done. Continue watering when needed over the next year while it establishes itself and stay patient while it readies itself to be your productive produce provider.

If you'd like to see these steps in action, check out our video on planting a bare root tree:

Happy Gardening!

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Frequently Asked Questions

How do you grow a fruit tree from seed?

Growing a fruit tree from seed is possible but rarely recommended, as most cultivated fruit trees are hybrids that will not produce the same fruit as the parent plant, and seedling trees can take 7 to 15 years to bear fruit. For best results, start with a seed that has been cold-stratified for 60 to 90 days in a moist paper towel inside your refrigerator, then plant it in a well-draining seedling mix about an inch deep in spring. If you want reliable fruit production in a reasonable timeframe, consider purchasing a grafted tree from a reputable nursery instead, which will fruit in as little as 2 to 5 years and stay true to the variety you want.

How do you plant a bare root fruit tree?

Bare root fruit trees should be planted during dormancy, typically in late winter to early spring before bud break, when soil temperatures begin to warm. Dig a hole wide enough to spread the roots without bending them, usually 2 to 3 feet across, and deep enough so the graft union sits 2 inches above the soil line. Remove any damaged roots, spread them naturally over a small mound of native soil at the hole's center, then backfill with the original soil, water thoroughly, and apply 2 to 3 inches of mulch keeping it several inches away from the trunk.

How do you care for a bare root tree after planting?

After planting a bare root tree, water it deeply and consistently, aiming for about 1 inch of water per week during the first growing season to help the roots establish. Apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot and retain moisture. Avoid heavy fertilization in the first year, as this can stress the newly developing root system. Focus on consistent watering and monitoring for signs of stress like wilting or yellowing leaves, and address any issues promptly to give your tree the best start possible.

How long does it take for a pear tree to bear fruit?

Pear trees typically begin bearing fruit in 3 to 5 years after planting, though some varieties may take up to 7 years to produce a meaningful harvest. Dwarf varieties tend to fruit sooner than standard-sized trees. To encourage earlier fruiting, plant your tree in a full-sun location with well-draining soil, choose a variety suited to your hardiness zone, and ensure you have a compatible pollination partner nearby, as most pear varieties require cross-pollination to set fruit.

How do you plant an orange tree outdoors?

Orange trees thrive in USDA zones 9-11 and need a location with full sun and well-drained soil. Dig a hole two to three times the width of the root ball and just as deep, place the tree so the graft union sits a few inches above the soil line, and backfill with native soil. Water thoroughly at planting and apply a 3-inch layer of mulch around the base, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. For best results, plant in early spring after any frost risk has passed and water consistently through the first growing season to establish strong roots.

What fruit trees can I plant right now in my zone?

The best fruit trees for your zone depend on your specific USDA Hardiness Zone, so that is the first detail to pin down. Gardeners in zones 9 and above do well with peaches, nectarines, apricots, and certain apple varieties like Pink Lady, while those in hot southern climates should consider figs or pomegranates, which thrive in heat without requiring chill hours. Gardeners in colder regions with harsh winters will have the most success with apples, plums, and pears. Visit naturehills.com, enter your zip code to confirm your zone, and use that information to filter our fruit tree selection for varieties proven to perform in your area.

How do you prepare the planting hole for a fruit tree?

Dig your planting hole two to three times wider than the root ball but no deeper than the container the tree came in, as planting too deep is one of the most common causes of fruit tree failure. The extra width gives roots room to spread into loosened soil, encouraging faster establishment. Once the tree is positioned at the correct depth with the graft union above the soil line, backfill with the native soil you removed, tamp it down gently to eliminate air pockets, and water thoroughly to settle the roots in place.

How do you water a newly planted fruit tree?

After planting, water your new fruit tree thoroughly and deeply to settle the soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets. For the first growing season, water deeply once or twice per week rather than frequent shallow watering, allowing moisture to penetrate 12 to 18 inches into the soil to encourage deep root development. Apply a 3 to 4 inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk, to help retain soil moisture between waterings. Check soil moisture regularly by pushing a finger 2 to 3 inches into the ground, and water whenever the soil feels dry at that depth.

Can you grow fruit trees in containers?

Yes, many fruit trees can be successfully grown in containers, making them a great option for gardeners with limited space or those in colder zones who need to bring trees indoors for winter. Dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties work best, and you'll want a container that holds at least 15 to 25 gallons to give the roots adequate room to develop. Choose a self-pollinating variety to ensure fruit production without needing a second tree nearby. Start with a high-quality potting mix designed for containers, ensure your pot has excellent drainage, and plan to repot every two to three years as the tree matures.

How do you fertilize a fruit tree after planting?

After planting, wait until your fruit tree shows active new growth before applying any fertilizer, as feeding too soon can burn young roots. Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 formula in early spring, following label directions for the size and age of your tree. Avoid fertilizing after midsummer, as this can encourage tender new growth that will be damaged by fall frosts. Visit naturehills.com to find fertilizers and soil amendments suited to your specific fruit tree variety and region.