patio plants

“Plant, and your spouse plants with you; weed, and you weed alone!” Jean-Jacques Rousseau The planting process is basically the same - whether for Shrubs and Trees, or Perennials or Tomato plants - the simple act of stirring up the soil inevitably brings new weed seeds up to the surface, clears away their competition, and allows them a chance to germinate! Being prepared for these adventitious weed seeds, some of which lie in wait for years for this chance, is an important part of working in your landscape! Time to grab your garden hoe and show them who is boss! Combatting Weeds Methods of Control Nature Abhors a Vacuum Attacking your weeds when they are tiny is so much easier than waiting until they get big. Those larger root systems, the possibility they’ve already gone to seed, deep taproots, and how even the tiniest piece of root left behind can start things all over again - it’s not worth taking the chance. Besides, the time it takes to remove tiny weeds is minimal and can be easily cleaned up with much less time!  Combatting Weeds Depending on the weed variety you’re combatting, simply by working in the garden and digging in the soil, you are creating an environment for these overachievers to get a foot-hold. Some just need sun and warm temperatures to germinate, while others prefer freshly disturbed soil. Whether the weeds are in your garden, the lawn, or even in mulched beds… a quick once-over with the tool of your choice will eliminate the baby weeds before they become overwhelming.  Stay ahead of the game with just 10 minutes of mind and soul-refreshing garden time! (Hey, it even counts as exercise!) Relieving stress and picturing yourself yanking your irritations in life out by the roots is almost better than therapy! Before you reach for a chemical or even organic spray, go ahead and try getting out the hand trowel, a garden hoe or other weeder, or a pair of gardening gloves. Then bent over or on hands and knees, do some garden Yoga pulling out your landscape invaders. I laugh at the thought that my neighbors may not recognize me from the front since I’m usually found bent over pulling weeds. Procrastination is the number one gardener's mistake. The weeds seem to know and double their efforts to turn your newly created tomato bed into a jungle! Woody weeds like tree or shrub seedlings, or weed grass seeds, none of them waste any time getting entrenched, spread, and go to seed before you can blink! A quick walk-through 2-3 times a week with your garden hoe can make easy work of it. The Right Tools Garden Gloves Yard Waste Bag or Compost Bin Hand Trowel Hand or Long-Handled Hoe or other Garden Weeder Dandelion Knife/Fishtail weeder for taproots Landscape Fabric and Mulch Pre Emergent Treatments Know Your Enemy! Knowing the type of weed you are dealing with takes some identification, experience and the right tools for each. When breaking ground on a new planting site, there can be all sorts of weeds laying in wait for this great opportunity. Starting by knowing if you are combatting annual, perennial & biennial weeds will save you time. Plants with taproots have a root that can be several inches deep. If they break off in the ground, they can regrow. Remove these as deep as possible. Dandelions are an example. Herbaceous weeds, like Chickweed and small weed grasses, can be cut off just below the soil level with a sharp knife or weeder and not disturb the soil around them (allowing dormant weeds to be brought up to the surface). Woody weeds, like those from shrubs and trees, have tougher stems and taproots, and sometimes need a shovel to remove them. Spreading and mat-forming weeds like Prostrate Knotweed, can root at every node that touches the ground, so remember to get out all those nodes and roots at each junction. Lastly the suckering vs runner-forming weeds like Mint can start in one area and sprout in another. Check around the area of each to make sure you have gotten all their satellite branching. Methods of Control The best means of control is prevention! Anytime you start a new garden area or have disturbed the soil for a new plant installation, you have several methods to stop the weeds from forming in the first place. Getting weed seed-free soil and compost when filling garden beds and containers is essential to remember. If you are getting dirt from an unknown source, you can cook it in batches in an old crockpot on low, or cook it in the sun in black plastic or a dark-colored tarp. Keeping your compost pile running hot with lots of nitrogen, will kill any microscopic bacteria, plant viruses, or weed seeds while providing you with loads of upcycled soil. If you have time and the sun and heat on your side, temporarily laying a sheet of black plastic over the entire planting area for a few days will smother and cook the weeds and their seeds enough to kill them outright. This can take a week or two. If you don’t have the time to wait, then apply a pre-emergent treatment that prevents the weeds from germinating at the time of planting your rooted plants. Do not use this method if you are planting seeds - pre-emergents are non-discriminate. “Pull When Wet. Hoe When Dry” Small, herbaceous weeds can be left on the surface of the soil to dry out in the sun without any worry they’ll have a chance to reroot and grow again, especially if it is a hot dry day. Larger weeds and more invasive varieties should be removed entirely from the area, sometimes even with as much dirt still clinging to the roots as possible. Just so none of their adventitious roots can regrow. Apply and maintain a nice 3-4 inch layer of arborist mulch of almost any kind to suppress weed growth around all of your plants (in addition to its numerous other benefits!). Most weed seeds only germinate when they are in the top couple of inches of soil, and others yet only if exposed to sunlight; so ensuring they stay deep and stay dark is half the battle! After a heavy rain, the ground is soft and weed roots pop right out of the ground easily. During hot dry days, it's better to shave them off at soil level with a hoe and leave the roots and tops to dry up. Small patches and single weeds can be easily get taken care of by hand, but larger patches of weeds can be mass removed when young with a hoe or weeder to get around your other plants in tight spots. Carefully work around these plants, without damaging their roots. Be mindful that you do not dig too deeply into the soil and bring new, dormant weed seeds to the surface. Keep larger patches of weeds mown down close to the ground so they can’t go to seed until you can remove them at the roots permanently. Nature Abhors a Vacuum Don’t let bare ground stay unattended for long since it’s a welcome mat for weed seeds. If you don’t fill it - Ma Nature certainly will! Fill it with 3-4” of mulch or a cover crop to help further keep weeds at bay. Planting groundcover plants are a more permanent solution too! You can also plant ahead by knowing the mature width of your perennials and shrubs and plant them so they grow to touch. Just don’t over-crowd your planting beds or you’ll risk foliar diseases and competition. While a few weeds in the back corners and out-of-the-way areas aren’t bad and help create habitat for beneficial insects and give native plants a place to call home.  Allowing anything - weed or landscaping plant - to grow out of bounds will quickly turn your garden into a hot mess. Commit to a schedule and stay on top of your weeding plan at least 2-3 times a week. Remove any weeds that are bold enough to still show their faces after all your hard work. Stay on top of weeds and stop them in their tracks while they’re still small with the help of NatureHills.com! Happy Planting!

Alien-looking, long, slender bugs with ever-watching eyes, the Praying Mantis is a truly unique and absolutely voracious beneficial insect with a fearless attitude! <Table of Contents> The word Mantis in Greek means “prophet” or “seer” and they’ve been kept as pets and raised by enthusiasts around the world. Revered as messengers passing along some spiritual secrets, Mantis have long been associated with the belief it's time to pause, relax and reflect on our surroundings. Chinese philosophy compares them to courageous and fearless warriors with a unique fighting style - both fast, camouflaged, and fluid. In western philosophy, the way Mantis hold their front legs up as if in prayer has led to their namesake and given rise to religious symbolism as divine messengers and wake-up calls. Around the world, Mantis symbolize stillness, contemplation, calm, patience, mindfulness and awareness, but also creativity, balance and intuition. Reminding you that all good things come to those who wait. They’re great to have around your Meditation and Zen gardens! All About Mantis Mantises are a large family of insects with an insanely wide range of sizes, and colors. They live worldwide in a variety of temperate to tropical climates! Out of the 2,400 species, they are part of a handful of bugs with raptorial forelegs that grasp and hold prey. They are one of fewer that can swivel their heads 180 degrees!  Those bulbous compound eyes and triangular heads always keep an eye on you and their next meal! They can also keep an eye out for bats which are their largest predator. Can see up to 60 feet and see in 3-D! Turn their heads 180 degrees (other bugs can’t do that) Move in a stealthy method of swaying and rocking to avoid detection Some Mantis have a type of echolocation like bats (to avoid being eaten by them) Use cryptic mimicry to camouflage themselves They can rear up and spread their wings with false eye spots to look scary Some species can hiss when threatened Eating anything they can catch - even each other They are very agile and can jump well and jump fast Can lay 100-400 hundred eggs They have a third (sometimes fourth), more primitive eye (ocellis) on their forehead The State insect of South Carolina Enthusiasts keep Mantis as pets! Their eardrum is located on the belly between their four hind legs! Fantastic pest control and very beneficial (though they do eat everything and anything), larger species in other areas of the world have been seen eating frogs, lizards, birds and snakes! Those with Hummingbird feeders even need to keep an eye out for an overly confident Mantis! I’ve personally seen one pluck a paper wasp straight out of the air and devour it in seconds, discarding the fiddly legs and wings like a picky eater! She then cleaned her legs like a satisfied cat, all the while looking at me like I was next. Known for ambush hunting styles, the female's weird cannibalism dating style, and a unique method of moving without being noticed, which involves rocking and swaying, to look like nothing more than any other swaying leaf or stem in the breeze.  They have the unique ability to camouflage themselves with their surroundings - taking on the exact color, texture, and shape of flowers, leaves, sticks, moss, bark, lichens, and anything else they find themselves living around. They simply molt and seem to blend in seamlessly, mimicking their surroundings! Holding absolutely still for hours to ambush their prey! They’re like little garden ninjas! Types of Mantis While here in the US, we have the Chinese, European, and native species of Carolina and Agile Mantis. Other species typically found throughout North America, but aren’t necessarily native are - Grizzled Mantis Mediterranean Mantis Minor Ground Mantids European Mantis Little Yucatan Mantis Slim Mexican Mantis Scudder’s Mantis Arizona Unicorn Mantis California Mantis Large Florida Mantis Bordered Mantis Narrow-Winged Mantis Grass-Like Mantis Yersin’s Grund and Horned Ground Mantis There is also a slew of niche Mantids around the world! Check out these varieties next time you are browsing around the internet - Malaysian Orchid Mantis - Colorful and match specific orchids Flower and Spiny Flower Mantis - Look identical to the flower they hunt on Dragon Mantis of Brazil African Mantis Ghost Mantis - Leaf-like bodies Wandering Violin Mantis - Pronounced Violin shaped abdomen Unicorn Mantis or Conehead Mantis - Elongated slender heads & ‘headdresses’ Giant Asian Mantis Shield Mantis - Wide flat bodies to look exactly like leaves Dead Leaf Mantis - Looks like, you guessed it, a dead leaf on the forest floor The Carolina Mantis (Stagmomantis carolina) is the native species here in the states. Growing to about 2-3 inches and are long and slender. Typically tan or brown, sometimes green, and even mottled gray (I’ve seen bright yellow ones!). One species native to the southwest United States and Southern Canada is the Agile Ground Mantis. There are non-native European Mantis (Mantis religiosa) that have been naturalized here in the states as well and can grow about 3 inches long. They look very similar to the Carolina Mantis and have similar traits and diets. They often have a dot under their bodies between their legs. Another larger species, up to 5 inches long, is the Chinese Mantis (Tenodera sinensis) which are almost similar in color and form. Females are always larger than males and both can molt to have wings when they’re older. Females create a foamy mass, secreted from their abdomens, to lay hundreds of eggs into this foam. It then hardens into a protective cocoon called ootheca.  This ootheca can be long and slender with evenly spaced ridges and lay flat along a surface, or they can be round and thicker and attached to plant stems. You’ll find these hanging from branches, leaves, or adhered to fencing and your home's siding. The nymphs hatch out of this nest in the spring. Be careful while doing garden cleanup not to accidentally dispose of next year's garden Kung Fu warriors. Attracting Praying Mantis to your Garden! The best method of attracting and keeping Mantis in your garden is simple! Grow organically and plant native species! Pesticides can wreak havoc on Mantis bodies as much as these chemicals can on the insects you are trying to kill. Choose spot treatments and organic means of control instead of carpet bombing the entire area and indiscriminately killing everything. Not only will you kill your Mantis, but also your bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects, plus all the food for your Mantis in one fell swoop. Beyond that, Praying Mantis just seem to pop up in any garden location with ample shade and cover, regular moisture, and places to hide. They do prefer to be around flowering plants and vegetable gardens. They also seem to enjoy plants in the Rose and Raspberry family, because these plants attract many insects for them to eat! Want a fun activity with the kids (or for your own enjoyment)? Next time you are in the garden in early spring and happen upon a Mantis cocoon - drop it in a jar with very small holes in the lid, or a fine mesh screen, and keep it in a protected area you can watch daily. By mid-spring, the nymphs will hatch and you’ll be able to release hundreds of baby Mantis into your garden! (Just be sure to watch it carefully and check back twice a day.) In a hurry to have Mantis in your garden? You can even buy Mantis egg cases and tuck them into your garden for free pest control! Or keep them as pets! They rarely bite even when handled but have been known to give you a good nip when you get too rough. Great Garden Ninjas! Like, little martial artists, Mantis are as fast as lightning, as agile as a cat, can hide in plain sight, and attack from the shadows! So next time you see one of these curious insects looking at you like you’re the blue plate special, stop and take a moment to relax, and hear their message of peace and tranquility in the garden! Then let them be as they saunter through your garden eating what’s bugging you most! Appreciate Praying Mantis and other beneficial insects and welcome them into your garden with the help of NatureHills.com! Happy Planting!

"Love is like a beautiful flower which I may not touch but whose fragrance makes the garden a place of delight just the same." - Helen Keller Walk outside and take a deep breath. What is it you smell? Is it a petrichor after rain, a freshly mown lawn, or refreshing fresh air? All these are great, but why not add something … better! Scent is an essential component to choosing flowering and ornamental perennials and flowers with wonderful fragrances are an added layer of appeal to your landscape! Flowers that give off scent also attract pollinators and enrich our landscape! Since ancient times, inhaling the fragrance of flowers has been practiced to reduce stress, fight inflammation and depression, and induce sleep! Check out some of Nature Hills Nursery’s favorite scented perennial plants! All About Perennial Care & Maintenance Top 5 Most Fragrant Perennials Follow Your Nose! When selecting your newest perfumed garden addition, be sure to choose flowers that bloom more than once a year! This not only extends your enjoyment of these Perennial blooms but gives you more bang for your buck! More blooms also mean more stems to snip and bring that scent indoors so your bouquets and table centerpieces carry that fantastic element into your home to improve your health and wellness of your mind, body, and spirit! They are one of the many parts of a Sensory Garden and just make the world a better place! From sweet and syrupy, to citrusy or floral, spicy and nose-tickling, to herbal and medicinal, scent can trigger memories, improve mood and calm the nerves! Place aromatic plants in high-traffic areas, in containers to keep them closer to your seating areas on your porch or deck, scent your reading and yoga nooks, or include in any garden to turn any area into a pollinator and cut flower garden! Keep fragrant low-growing fragrant plants near nose level by planting them in raised gardens and planters! All About Perennial Care & Maintenance Unlike woody shrubs and trees, Perennials tend to die back to their crowns each autumn once the frost and snow have settled into the picture. Leaving behind their stems, some dead leaves, and maybe some seed heads for birds and winter interest, but usually are MIA until next spring. But once they start growing again, Perennials are bigger and better each year! There are Perennials for full sun, partial shade, and full shade, Perennials that do well in moist soil and in drier more xeric conditions, and large or small Perennial plants for gardens of all shapes and sizes! But they are all pretty easy to care for once you have selected plants suited for your sun and soil requirements and your unique hardiness zone! Basic Perennial Care Easy to grow and care for, they require just a few simple steps and maintenance to keep those colorful, fragrant blooms returning! Proper sun or shade requirements Fertilize in spring and again in mid-summer Moderate, consistent moisture for the best bloom A 3-4 inch thick layer of Arborist bark chips year-round Prune back each fall after frost or very early spring before they grow Clean up the mound in spring Some benefit from division every 3-5 years Top 5 Most Fragrant Perennials Without further ado, here are Nature Hills Nursery’s favorite fragrant Perennials! #5 Perfumed Phlox The Phlox plant was originally found in North America and comes from a Greek word meaning flame. It belongs to the Polemoniaceae family. The aromatic, showy flowers of the Phlox plant have quickly grown in popularity and they display their bright colors in summer and autumn. Some blooms have contrasting colored eyes or bi-color flowers. All have an enjoyable spicy-sweet clove-like fragrance and attract Hummingbirds, bees and butterflies. The plants also differ in size; some are erect perennials and others are mat-forming. There are Tall Garden Phlox, Creeping Phlox, and many Hybrid Phlox that are easy care and scented! Tall Garden Phlox Creeping Phlox Laura Hardy Tall Phlox #4 Irresistible Iris Many Iris are fantastically fragrant - some even smell like sweet grape jelly, chocolate or citrus! Bearded Iris especially carry intense fragrant, look great in a vase, and thrive in a wide range of conditions and even some shade! Cold hardy and ever spreading bigger and better, these are old-fashioned garden standards. Clarence Tall Bearded Iris- Ice blue fragrant blooms Immortality Tall Bearded Iris - White and fringed blooms Iris Variegata - Gold and green variegated Iris that smells like grape jelly! Dwarf Iris often have a delightfully sweet scent #3 Peony Parfum! Peony Plants are highly sought-after for their voluminous pompoms of creamy, creamy petals that are heavily saturated with a deep perfume fragrance. A favorite flower of weddings, these long-lasting fluffy perennials come in pink, red, white, and yellow. They grow well in zones 2-9. They should be planted in the fall. Each spring, they will return to welcome in the new season with their glorious scent! Not only will you adore them, but so will every hummingbird, honeybee and butterfly in the area! Duchesse de Nemours Bartzella Itoh Peony Dr. Alexander Fleming Festiva Maxima Pecher Peony #2 The Mighty Mint Family Why should blooms get all the attention? The foliage of anything in the Mint family is well-known for its aromatic and medicinal perfume! Uplifting, soothing, and sometimes even flavorful, these plants carry that scent from head to toe! Fill a garden of the senses with plants that fill the air with their fragrance as you walk past them, brush their leaves, or harvest them for your recipes, tea, and bouquets (because their blooms are beautiful and aromatic too!)! Mints, Peppermints, Spearmints, and the like Catmints and Catnips Russian Sage Many Herbs - Sage, Basil, Lavender, Oregano, and Thyme just to name a few #1 Spring Flowering Bulbs Strong sweet ephemerals with powerful fragrance, these incredibly colorful and easy-to-grow spring bulbs grow in a wide range of conditions, sizes, colors, and form! Plant these beauties in the fall, and they will return each spring before retreating from the summer sun! Lily of the Valley Hyacinth and Grape Hyacinth (Muscari) Tulips Daffodils Paperwhite Narcissus Honorable Mentions: It’s hard to choose just five flowering perennials since so many are deliciously perfumed! And who can forget scented Dianthus with their peppery clove-like Carnation-family scent? Many summer-flowering bulbs like Lilies can fill a room (indoors or out) with their heady perfume! Follow Your Nose! Any one of these perennials with their beauty and fragrance will turn your home garden into a showplace that you can enjoy with more than just your eyes! You’ll add a completely new dimension to your garden experience and feel the world become lifted from your shoulders and worries from your mind! Keep Those Blooms More Fragrant Avoid pesticides and chemical fertilizers - they harm pollinators and take away from the scent. Use drip irrigation - Avoid getting the flowers wet if able, so water at the roots Time of day and weather - Flowers tend to smell better in the morning before the sun evaporates the volatile oils. Keep your cut flowers smelling great longer by trimming the stems each day, keeping your vases and water clean with daily changes, using flower food, and keeping your blooms out of drafts/heating vents and full sun. Stop and smell more than just the Roses with these easy-care ornamental Perennials! Perfume your world with these and many more scented flowers available at Nature Hills. You will enjoy seeing… and smelling your landscape! Happy Planting!

“Weeds are flowers too, once you get to know them.” - A.A. Milne Weeds really love the comfy environment that our manicured lawns provide! After all, these rugged, adventitious plants have hard-earned their place after generations of survival in far harsher environments and know a thing or two about how to thrive where they’re not wanted. While it isn’t so bad to let a few native flowers run amok in the backyard, the front lawn is usually best maintained to uphold curb appeal standards. Many of these weeds are edible and medicinal plants that were intentionally brought here by immigrants and used as leafy vegetables that grew anywhere and everywhere - fast. Easily providing them nutrient-dense greens for themselves or their livestock. Others hitchhiked here in horseshoes and boot treads, earning many names like ‘White Man's Footprint’ because they sprung up everywhere colonial travelers went. Regardless of whether these are natives or imports - when they pop up in the lawn, they can quickly become an issue! Here are 10 more Top Lawn Weeds and how to get rid of them best! Defiant Invaders of Turf Common Lawn Weeds and Their Control 10 More Lawn Weeds and Their Control Spraying Tips & Other Methods of Control Tips When Spraying for Weeds They’re Not The Bad Guys Here Defiant Invaders of Turf Before you villainize these plants, remember they’re just doing what comes naturally! Who wouldn’t want to grow in that pampered, enriched environment, regular moisture, and frequent applications of fertilizer? It really is greener in your manicured lawn than in the gutter! Your typical lawn grass is part of the monocot family and that is why broadleaf weed killers destroy everything else that doesn’t grow with parallel veins. Knowing what to apply and when can make or break your victory lawn. Common Lawn Weeds and Their Control Whether it’s your typical native wildflower that is struggling to hold onto its shrinking environment, the noxious weed that can be somewhat harmful to crops, health, wildlife, or property, or the invasive, non-native weed imports brought over from elsewhere and now erupted into the environment. 10 More Lawn Weeds and Their Control Here are the top weeds typically found causing problems in your lawn. 1. Prostrate Knotweed  Prostrate Knotweed is a very widespread and very common annual herb/weed that is related to Buckwheat and Dock. Found in all 50 states, it is a very widespread and invasive plant. Low-growing and rooting at nodes along the way, the plant is named for its round ‘knuckles’ or ‘knots’ at each leaf node. Spreading out from a central rosette and taproot Polygonum is also known as Wire or Knot Grass. It can release growth-inhibiting chemicals into the soil that kills other plants and seems to thrive in compact soils with low oxygen. Sometimes with reddish stems, reddish nodes, and even a white bloom to the foliage, the tough stems can take on a woody texture after years of mowing. Making hand removal difficult. It grows early, grows fast, and spreads easily while dispersing thousands of seeds. Finding its way into lawn edges, sidewalk cracks, and bare spots fast. Treat in spring and summer with a combination of lawn aeration, mowing to remove flowers before they become seeds, improving drainage of your soil, hand-pulling, and pre-emergents, plus 2 4-D and herbicides that contain dicamba and glyphosate. 2. Spotted Spurge Native Spotted Spurge, or Prostrate Spurge (Euphorbia), is an annual flat-growing and fast-growing weed that spreads wide from a rosette and taproot-like Knotweed but has very flat leaves and a reddish spot in the center of each green leaf. Identified by their Euphorbia family’s milky white sap that can be a skin irritant. Spreading through waste areas, garden beds, and bare spots, it quickly gains a foothold in the edges and crevices of your lawn or pavement. These annual weeds can grow up to 3 feet across and seeds that are made that summer will sprout and take hold before winter! Wear gloves when pulling by hand and use pre-emergents in spring and summer, while applying broadleaf weed herbicides in between to control large infestations. Feeding your lawn to strengthen it, covering and filling bare spots, mowing high to shade Spurge out, and watering deeply but less often are ways to support your lawn so it can take care of this problem on its own. 3. Wild Violets Darling little native Viola growing around the edges of your lawn and garden may look nice, but in some areas, they can become a nuisance. Like Dandelions and Clover, let them bloom for the bees, then treat them later in the season before they go to seed. The heart-shaped leaves and lovely white, lavender, or blue flowers are usually welcome sights in spring anyway! Violets can spread fast by seeds, rhizomes, and stolons, and won’t require much maintenance or fuss. They love the shade and turfgrass varieties become less vigorous in shade, allowing Violets to take over. If Violets are a problem in your yard, you may have too much shade to plant grass and you might consider using something else instead. Add untreated flowers to salads and as a garnish, candy them for desserts, or make them into beautiful pink and purple jelly, while some use the leaves medicinally and in culinary applications too. But when Violets get out of control its time to hand pull with gloves, ensuring you get the entire clump and taproot, or apply a broadleaf killer that contains 2,4-D or Dicamba, or herbicide with a spreader/sticker to help it stick to the waxy leaves better. Apply herbicide in the fall for best results. 4. Wild Garlic/Onions Difficult to control because of the sheer amount of seeds, aerial bulblets, and their resilient perennial bulbs that multiply underground. This cold-hardy and early-blooming Wild Allium family members may look pretty when in full flower, and are often smothered in honeybees and pollinators, but they can spread fast and become a problem before you can blink! Usually jumping the borders of veggie gardens or from the wild, untreated patches can be used as you would an Onion, Chive, Garlic or Garlic scapes, even the blooms are edible! Native here in North America, these are not imports, but just highly adaptable plants. Easily identified by their onion and garlic smell when crushed, forming dense clumps and having a hollow, round stem, Allium family members typically have white flowers and white bulbs underground with papery covers similar to larger store-bought onions and garlic. They are cold tolerant, handle wet soil, and are drought resistant, so are part of many alternative lawn plants and great for pollinator-friendly prairie and garden designs. Hand-pulling results in leaving behind the bulblets that form around the mother bulb, so you need to dig deep and collect all the bulbs in the soil and remove them completely. Otherwise, spot treating with an herbicide for lawns while following the steps noted above on keeping your lawn healthy so it can fight back on its own. Reducing competition and shading out the invaders while dethatching and aerating your lawn regularly helps too. 5. Creeping Charlie Also known as Ground Ivy, Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea) is a perennial vine that spreads both above ground and below, and by seed. The pretty scalloped leaves and purple flowers are welcome in backyards, shady areas, and out-of-the-way locations for the bees, their low-growing beauty, and incredibly adaptable. Many alternative lawn choices include this lovely member of the Mint family.  Common throughout the UK, Ground Ivy most likely was inadvertently transported by settlers. Now, some people actually plant this instead of using turfgrass, especially in very shaded locations where the grasses do not do well but Creeping Charlie will thrive. Used as an alternative to hops for brewing, it has the family scent and flavor and is sometimes used medicinally. Broadleaf weed killer is best if you have lots of Creeping Charlie, but not always very effective. Otherwise, hand pulling, frequent mowing, improving your soil's drainage, and watering less frequently help prevent Glechoma from getting a foothold. Like other members of the Mint family, leaving behind even the smallest root or stem will have it completely regrow. Smothering may be the only recourse if you have a large infestation.  6. Johnson Grass Also going by the names Egyptian grass, Morocco Millet, and False Guinea Grass, this aggressive Bermuda grass look-alike has a smooth glossy look to its green blades and a prominent white midrib. The hairy undersides and tiered open panicle seedheads in a reddish-black tone. Growing upright but spreading via seed, underground roots, and stolons, Johnsongrass (Sorghum halepense) grows and spreads fast, reaching 6 feet in some instances. Controlling this grass is best with a preemergent application to stop its seeds from getting started in the spring - especially in areas where this is a problem. Controlling the seedling's young is easy with hand-pulling or other hand-removal methods. Considered a noxious weed in many parts of the US, Johnsongrass was introduced as livestock forage. Large infestations need to be controlled in the autumn with Roundup, salt of glyphosate, or a foliar systemic herbicide that kills at the roots. 7. Plantain Also known as Snake Plants, Broad-Leaf Plantain, Buckhorn Plantain, and Slender-Leaf Plantain, these perennial weeds choose compacted soil locations, bare spots, and areas where grass has died, preferring those over the deep, fluffy, enriched locations in the main lawn, so usually they’re not a big problem. Plantain (Plantago spp.) happily pops up in both sun and shade. Brought over on purpose for medicine and by accident as seeds in the hooves of horses carried over by pilgrims, spread by wagons and boots as settlers spread out across the States. A single flowering shoot can have thousands of tiny seeds. However, you may recognize these seeds - they’re better known as Psyllium which is the primary component of many over-the-counter bulk-forming laxatives used to treat constipation. The plant leaves are used medicinally for skin issues, used in salves, and dried, then drank as a tea. Growing from a rosette and deep taproot, these broad leaves have monocot-like parallel veins but they are not in the monocot family. Best controlled with a broadleaf weed killer in the fall, by hand pulling and ensuring they don’t go to seed. Another method of prevention is preventing your soil from becoming hardpan and compacted. 8. Barnyard Grass Another prostate-growing rosette-forming grass, Barnyard or Cockspur grass is a summer annual that grows spiky purple seeds and bright green foliage. Like Crabrass, it can have reddish stems closer to the rosette and is related to the Millet food crop. However, it is a noxious agricultural weed that can severely deplete soil nitrogen levels. One plant can produce up to 40,000 seeds! Barnyardgrass (Echinochloa crus-galli) can grow up to 5 feet in height when in seed. Hand-pull small quantities of this grass, and it’s best to control it before it gets too large or goes into seed. Spray with Roundup or other turfgrass herbicides to control. 9. Virginia Buttonweed The Virginia Buttonweed (Diodia virginiana) is a fast-spreading broadleaf weed found in lawns throughout the southeastern United States. Its tenacity comes from its deep taproot and its perennial nature. Low-growing and spreading, rooting at the nodes as it creeps, Buttonweed does well in moisture. The four-petalled white flowers sow seeds freely. Reduce watering and use the bare minimum to maintain your turf, and mow your grass a bit higher and more frequently during the growing season. Keep your lawn thick to out-compete this plant. Applying broad-leaf weed killers like Sulfonylurea herbicides and Trifloxysulfuron. 10. Green Kyllinga Kyllinga (Kyllinga brevifolia) is a flowering cool-season plant in the Sedge family commonly known as Spikesedges. The bright green blades with triangular stems have seed heads like little round spiky balls with a long trio of slender green leaves. Kyllinga does not have underground tubers like Yellow Nutsedges and has green flowers. The glossy, grassy green leaves have a neat fold right down their middle and prefer moist locations where it forms dense mats in areas of the lawn without any competition. Kyllinga spreads by seed, horizontal, creeping, and underground stems (stolons). Preemergent works great when applied at the right time, afterward use an herbicide best for killing plants in the Sedge family that contains halosulfuron, imazosulfuron, MSMA, or trifloxysulfuron. Spraying Tips & Other Methods of Control Most weeds need the sun to grow, so be sure to set your lawn mowing height to a taller height - more in the range of 3 inches or so if possible - which will help to shade out some of the weeds. It is always best to spray your lawn for weeds in later summer to eliminate all of the perennial weeds and eliminate the spring-sprouted seedlings before fall ends. This will prevent the weeds from setting seed in spring and spreading throughout your lawn. Late August or September on actively growing bluegrass lawns that have been watered from rain or from irrigation. Be sure to pick a day to spray weed killer when your grass is dry to the touch, and rain is not forecasted for 24 hours. Try to spray on a day that is not windy, and at a time when bees and other insects are not active like early in the day or early evening. Tips When Spraying for Weeds So now that you have identified your lawn problems, and have opted for spraying your weeds, follow a few words of advice to do so safely. There is an assortment of various combinations of 2 4-D, Glyphosate, MCPA, MCPP, and Dicamba weed killers that control both weed grasses and broadleaf weeds. Boiling water, salt spot treatments, and vinegar are more natural methods, but they will also kill good plants with the bad. Spraying Reminders Always read the product's label, application directions, and reapplication requirements Remember to spray only on overcast days when you do not expect rain before the spray can dry. Rain after spraying simply washes off the product Try not to spray on windy days Don’t spray when temps may exceed 80°F (26-27°C) you may burn leaves and blooms Avoid spraying when pollinators are active during the day.  Keep pets and kids away based on what is recommended on the product's label Also, try to only spray during times when bees and other beneficial insects aren’t as active. (Shady days, before the sun is up fully or after the sun has set, during cooler temperatures) Try to let the Clover and Dandelions bloom early in the spring so that early emerging pollinators have something nectar-rich to eat, and treat the lawn later in the growing season when there’s more variety for them to forage. Spraying 101 The first step to spraying for weeds is to have the proper equipment: A well-labeled refillable sprayer or ready-to-use formula A garden hose that’s long enough (spray on formulas) A mixing tub if needed The spray itself - Read Those Directions! Protective clothing that covers all skin surfaces and your head/hair Eye protection  Mask/Breathing protection Footwear that the spray won't soak into This applies to both organic and synthetic sprays since none were designed for our skin, eyes, or for breathing. They’re Not The Bad Guys Here These adventitious plants are not in the wrong - they’re just in the wrong place at the wrong time. Both native and invasive weeds are just doing what nature intended! Some are just a bit better at it than others, and others are prettier so they get a free pass as welcome garden additions. Those that have not earned the ornamental landscape plant badge of approval for our gardens became villainized and unwanted, but it doesn’t mean they’re not important components to the ecosystem and to something in our environment. Nature Hills has developed Plant Sentry™ proprietary software to ensure all our plants are compliant with State and Federal Agricultural laws throughout the entire continental US. Plant Sentry prevents the sale and shipment of plants that are restricted in each state because of insects, disease, or invasiveness. This helps keep invasives from entering your area and spreading more than they already have! Nature Hills is watching out for our shared environment! It’s always a great idea to plant some flowering plants in your landscape including some native plants to attract some beneficial insects to your yard. Learning to live hand in hand with our environment, leaving some food for the bees and a place for the weeds to grow, all while keeping up appearances with the neighbors is a delicate balancing act! Happy Planting!

“A weed is a plant that has mastered every survival skill except learning how to grow in rows!” - Doug Larson Weeds! They’re really not the bad guy …. they’re just in the wrong place at the wrong time! They especially enjoy the comfy environment that our manicured lawns provide. However, these rugged, adventitious plants have hard-earned their place after generations of survival in far harsher environments and know a thing or two about how to thrive where they’re not wanted. While it isn’t so bad to let a few Violets, Creeping Charlie, or Clover run amok in the back corners of your yard, the front lawn is usually best maintained on par with the Joneses.  Many of these are edible and medicinal plants like Dandelions, Chickweed, Purslane, and Lambsquarters that were intentionally brought here by immigrants because these leafy vegetables grew anywhere and everywhere fast, providing them nutrient-dense greens, while others traveled here in horseshoes and boot treads. Earning many names like White Man's Footprint because they sprung up everywhere colonial travelers went. The Scourge of White Picket Fences Common Lawn Weeds and Their Control Top Lawn Weeds Tips When Spraying for Weeds Other Methods of Control The Scourge of White Picket Fences Before you villainize these plants for just doing what comes naturally, it’s important to understand why they’re growing in your lawn in the first place!  That enriched environment, regular moisture, and regular applications of fertilizer really do make the grass greener in your manicured lawn, and a verdant paradise when compared to cracks in the sidewalk or growing in the gutter! We’ve cultivated the soil, removed their competition, and given them everything they could hope for! Typical lawn grass is in the monocot family and that is why broadleaf weed killers destroy everything else that doesn’t grow with parallel veins! Knowing what to apply and when can make or break your pretty green lawn! While gardeners like myself prefer the organic ‘eat the weeds’ approach, we’d rather dig up Purslane to move it into the vegetable garden, or dig Dandelion roots to roast for caffeine-free coffee substitutes! There are loads of other methods available to you for a clean, green expanse of turf! Common Lawn Weeds and Their Control While no two weeds are alike, there are 3 main types: The first is your typical native wildflower that is only trying to grow in its ever-shrinking environment. Not all are the prettiest or showiest and fall into the background noise of greenery. The second is the noxious weed that, while also a wildflower of sorts, comes with an attitude. These can be somewhat harmful to crops, health, wildlife or property. Some of these weeds are poisonous to livestock and our pets (and us!) or have skin-irritating spurs, burs, and sap. Others invade agriculture and reduce crop health and size, costing loads of money to remove them and causing crop loss. The third category is invasive weeds. Non-native imports that are both wildflowers brought over from elsewhere and have now erupted into the landscape like a kid in the candy store. Without the usual checks and balances of insect and animal browsing, or climate controls, they are running rampant today. Kudzu and some forms of English Ivy, Some types of Purple Loosestrife and so many others have been inadvertently given prime growing conditions with no competition, and can easily take over a non-native area … fast.  It’s the less aggressive, more polite native plants and our lawns that invasives are out-competing or completely outgrowing. That is when they become a problem. Top Lawn Weeds “Sedges have edges and Rushes are round Grasses have knees that bend to the ground.” In addition to the well-known and well-despised Dandelion, these are the Top 10 Most Wanted weeds typically found causing problems in your lawn! Crabgrass Great for feeding livestock and fast-growing, it was once even harvested as a grain crop. Intentionally introduced into the U.S. in 1849 by the U.S. Patent Office as a livestock forage crop, it now runs rampant. Growing in the form of a rosette and laying flat (prostrate) as it grows along the ground, Crabgrass (Digitaria spp.) can root at every node that touches the ground making hand pulling tricky. The stems in the middle of the rosette can turn reddish when clumps are older. When mature and going to seed, warm-season Crabgrass can grow up to 2 feet tall with a forked spray of straight seed stems like an aerial foot.  The only way to prevent Crabgrass or annual Bluegrass from growing is to use a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent the seeds from germinating preventing the next generation. You might need to spray 2 or three years in a row to prevent all of the seeds from germinating. Easily pulled out when young or if there are a few - just be sure to grab hold of all stems and remove them completely - because they will regrow if you leave any part behind. There are plenty of herbicides specifically geared for Crabgrass that won’t hurt other grasses that can be used as the seedlings germinate. Remove flowers before profuse seeding or else the seeds can live in the ground for years and wait for conditions to be just right.  Plant Ryegrass in heavy Crabgrass areas and keep bare spots from forming since Crabgrass despises competition. Treat with either pre-emergents or chemicals or with Crabgrass-specific weed killer.  Sandbur Sandbur (Cenchrus) are warm-season and warm-climate grasses with spiked seed heads that are painful to the feet of both people and pets and get caught in fur and clothing. Similar looking to Crabgrass, Sandbur grows almost prostrate for most of its life cycle. The difference is revealed once the plants are in seed, and green burs form atop taller stems. Native to many locations around the world, they prefer sandy soil and arid climates to grow best. Control is easy by maintaining a dense healthy turf area. Prevention involves using a pre-emergent herbicide, or post-emergent herbicide when seedlings are young. Maintaining a dense lawn to choke them out early by way of competition. This is because Sandbur prefers dry open and sandy locations that patchy lawns provide. Regular mowing, irrigation, and maintenance keep a dense turf that these plants despise. Sedges Also known as Nutsedge (Cyperus spp.), and Yellow or Purple Nutsedge, Sedges are native grasses that can be quite ornamental, but also native varieties can be pesky nuisances in moisture-loving locations. Easily identified by their unique triangular stems and bright green, smooth leaves. Called ‘nut’ sedges because of the nut-like tubers that form underground and help them spread, these weeds shoot up bright yellow or red/purple spiky plumes in late summer and fall (depending on the variety). Hand pull before the Fourth of July to prevent the nutlets from forming and before they can go to seed, otherwise try to improve drainage of the area, and kill the underground tubers by digging up the entire plant methodically to keep them from coming back. A landscape fabric chokes them out well too. Bermudagrass Bermudagrass or Bermuda Grass (Cynodon dactylon) is a great type of turf that was widely used because of its heat, drought, salt, and foot traffic tolerance, but it’s also become a bit of a problem in and of itself. A warm season and warm climate grass, Bermuda Grass was introduced to North America from Eastern Africa in the 1800s as pasture grass. It can easily become a nuisance in garden beds and borders as it creeps into areas you don’t want them to. Similar looking and creeping along like Zoysia grass and Japanese Knotweed, the underground stolons look similar to tiny ginger roots. Bermuda Grass creeps and spreads quickly forming dense mats that choke out other plants and turf. Keep it out of trouble with regular lawn edgers to keep it in bounds, systemic lawn herbicides, and glyphosate weed killers if needed. Smothering is one method of eradication and hand-digging it out is great for small areas of removal, but be sure to remove as much of the roots and some of the soil around the roots because of how easily they grow from the smallest bits left behind. Bentgrass (Creeping) Creeping Bentgrass, or Bentgrass for short, is a cool-season perennial grass that grows fast and can tolerate being mowed very short, making it great for golf courses. Thriving in cool weather and moist conditions, the light green grass has a fine texture and grows fast. Quickly overtaking other grass and choking it out. Since it is a cool-season grass, it tends to turn brown in hot weather, allowing other weeds to gain a foothold in the bare patches it creates. Bentgrasses most likely naturalized by spreading from southern Canada and now flourishes throughout most of the States. The rapid spread can be controlled by simply improving the drainage of your soil and watering a bit less often in the spring but watering deeply when you do. Aerate your lawn regularly because Bent Grass has very shallow-growing roots that form dense mats of thatch but dry out easily with deep, infrequent waterings and when exposed to the air. Applying glyphosate and reseeding is good for small areas, but larger areas just need removed entirely and reseeded or have sod or grass plugs installed. Foxtail Grass Usually found in the western portions of the United States, Green Foxtail (Setaria viridis) is a grassy native weed that can irritate skin and even cause pets serious issues if they get them in their skin, eyes and nose, and even if eaten. The pretty, silky, long-tasseled seed heads resemble their namesake, looking more like bottlebrushes once the seed heads dry out. Growing in light green upright clumps, the seed heads wave in the wind along roadsides and pastures.  Best controlled with pre-emergents, mowing frequently, and preventing bare spots from forming in the first place. Quackgrass Quickgrass or Quackgrass (Elymus repens) is a rough-bladed, perennial grass, that feels burred, rough, and scratchy when rubbed the wrong way. Also known as Couch grass, Dog grass, and Witch grass, this quick-sprouting, cool-season grass can be difficult to eliminate. Now considered naturalized here in the States, it was most likely brought over by settlers in their livestock feed, plant soil, and in boot treads. Alternating short seed heads with yellowish ‘flowers’ dangling off of them, they go to seed quickly and the stems break easily, making it difficult to remove by hand, quickly regrowing from broken stems and thick white roots.  The roots and rhizomes can emit a chemical into the soil like Black Walnut trees inhibiting other plants from growing around them. Boiling water, selective types of herbicide, pre-emergents, and methodical maintenance are the best ways to stop Quack Grass. Keep a thick, lush lawn and deep waterings that are less frequent, plus weekly weed checks to catch issues before they spread far and wide.  Clover White Clover, Dutch Clover, Red Clover, Strawberry Clover, Yellow Sweet Clover, and more, are all members of a cold-hardy, fast-growing, and highly adaptable native wildflower that has become a widely used, eco-friendly alternative lawn plant and groundcover because of its ease of care and ability to choke out other weeds. Staying green without any fertilizer because of how these plants make their own nitrogen! They require little mowing and most grow low to the ground. The downside is that Clover doesn’t do well with lots of foot traffic. However, the very benefits that are so sought after as lawn alternatives make Clover a formidable opponent in regular lawn turf! The pretty blooms are a bee’s favorite because of how early they emerge, often the first food source for pollinators in the spring, so be sure to treat for Clover later in the season when there are more options available for bees to sip.  Control unwanted Clover by hand pulling, raising your mower height so your turf shades out the Clover, and by keeping your turfgrass healthy and the thatch thick to stop Clover from spreading. There are many Clover-specific herbicides. Black Medic  Similar looking to Clovers in leaf and bloom, Black Medic (Medicago) is a dense growing, yellow-flowering plant that grows low rosettes. Choking out other plants with their dense growth and thick colonies, these plants also make their own nitrogen as Clovers do. Introduced to North America in the late 1700s-1800s, it most likely arrived mixed in animal forage seed or inadvertently carried by settlers in crop seeds. Using pre-emergents to stop new plants from forming in the spring is the best control method. Broadleaf weed killers, specific herbicides, and hand-pulling work well on older plants and it is important to get them before they go to seed. And a single plant can produce up to 6,600 seeds! Moss Dense and shading out everything else, Mosses typically have little competition due to their ability to thrive in barren, rocky, sandy, compacted, and poor soil. Moss is found on every continent of the world and grows everywhere except near salt water. Also thriving in high moisture and in the shade, or in areas that are always damp or have no drainage. Solve that and you get rid of the Moss. Many homeowners with those adverse soil conditions actually encourage Moss to grow, it has become a lawn alternative for those who cannot do anything about the condition of their soil and still enjoy a green landscape. Improve your soil texture, loosen compacted soil, combat the acidity, and improve drainage and you’ll get rid of Moss. Spread a new layer of native topsoil and apply sod or new grass plugs to create a new lawn over the problem area. Moss grows in the shade so if your lawn area is simply too shaded you may consider using moss instead of any turfgrass! Tips When Spraying for Weeds So now that you have identified your lawn problems, and have opted for spraying your weeds, follow a few words of advice to do so safely. Be sure to set your lawn mowing height to a taller height - more in the range of 3 inches or so if possible that will help to shade out some of the shorter weeds that might find their way into your lawn. It is always best to spray your lawn for weeds in later summer to eliminate all of the perennial weeds and eliminate the spring-sprouted seedlings before fall ends. This will prevent the weeds from setting seed in spring and spreading throughout your lawn.  Late August or September on actively growing lawns that have been watered from rain or from irrigation. Be sure to pick a day to spray weed killer when your grass is dry to the touch, and rain is not forecasted for 24 hours. Today there is an assortment of various combinations of 2 4-D, Glyphosate, MCPA, MCPP, and Dicamba weed killers that control broadleaf weeds. Boiling water, salt spot treatments, and vinegar are more natural methods, but they will also kill good plants with the bad. Spraying Reminders  Always read the product's label, application directions, and reapplication requirements! Remember to spray only on overcast days when you do not expect rain before the spray can dry. Rain after spraying simply washes off the product. Try not to spray on windy days (a mythical day here in the Midwest!) Don’t spray when temperatures may exceed 80°F (26-27°C) you may burn leaves and blooms. Avoid spraying when pollinators are active during the day.  Keep pets and kids away during and after spraying - until the product dries or what is recommended on the product's label. Keep yourself safe while spraying Also, try to only spray during times when bees and other beneficial insects aren’t as active. (Shady days, before the sun is up fully or after the sun has set, during cooler temperatures) Try to let the Clover and Dandelions bloom early in the spring so that early emerging pollinators have something nectar-rich to eat, and treat the lawn later in the growing season when there’s more variety for them to forage. Spraying 101 The first step to spraying for weeds is to have the proper equipment: A well-labeled refillable sprayer or ready-to-use formula A garden hose that’s long enough (spray on formulas) A mixing tub if needed The spray itself - Read Those Directions! Protective clothing that covers all skin surfaces and your head/hair Eye protection  Mask/Breathing protection Footwear that the spray won't soak into This applies to both organic and synthetic sprays since none were designed for our skin, eyes, or for breathing. Other Methods of Control Shade them out! Smaller areas can be killed off by covering the affected areas with black plastic, felt paper, wood boards, or cardboard until the weeds are dead. This will kill ALL plants that are shaded, including both desirable and undesirable perennial grasses, so use this option as a last-ditch genocide method. The resulting rich, black earth under the cover has essentially been composted. This may take several weeks and may not kill all weed seeds (which can tolerate higher temperatures and lay in wait for years). The killed areas will need to be tilled and reseeded or sodded after. They’re Not The Bad Guys Here The thing of it is, both native and invasive weeds are just doing what nature intended! Some are just a bit better at it than others, and some natives are just prettier so they get a free pass in the garden. Those that have not earned the ornamental landscape plant badge of approval for our gardens became villainized and unwanted, but it doesn’t mean they’re not important components to the ecosystem. Nature Hills has developed Plant Sentry™ proprietary software to ensure all our plants are compliant with State and Federal Agricultural laws throughout the entire continental US. Plant Sentry prevents the sale and shipment of plants that are restricted in each state because of insects, disease, or invasiveness. This hopefully helps keep these pesky lawn weeds from entering your area and spreading more than they already have! Nature Hills is watching out for our shared environment! Learning to live hand in hand with our environment, leave some food for the bees, and a place for the weeds to grow, all while keeping up appearances with the neighbors is a delicate balancing act! Using a ‘take some, leave some’ approach and controlling plants brought over from other countries and even other States is what will keep our native plants - and weeds - safe from invaders of all kinds. Create an area in your landscape where the weeds, pollinators, and native wildflowers can live life to the fullest and still keep your lawn up to par with the HOA with these preventative and control methods for your turf. That way the grass will be greener on the other side for all! Happy Planting!