Soft, feathery needles are born on a fast-growing Pine tree that will grow large in a short period of time.
Trying to cut down on that wind? A quick solution to reducing wind and snowdrifts would be the addition of a natural, elongated planting on the north and/or west side of your property.
New housing developments many times do not have many trees or natural areas in which they were carved out of. That doesn’t mean that you must put up with all that wind, or even neighbors that are encroaching upon your home retreat. In a short period of time, look what Green Giant Western Arborvitae can do for your property!
This planting has only been in for a little over 10 years. Even when the plants were smaller, they were trapping snow, blocking wind, or blocking unsightly views. No pruning was done but these Green Giant were allowed to just grow naturally and why not? Beautiful and natural.
Each year they get a bit taller and wider and become more valuable as they age. You can’t say that about a fence…lol.
It’s sold in bags at the gas station or grocery store. It’s sold at box stores. It’s sold in bulk at lumber yards and landscape companies. There are all different kinds of mulches available. Bark chunks, shredded hardwood, double shredded, chipped and dyed mulches are available in different colors, and let’s not forget arborists chips that are available for free in many areas.
Plants benefit greatly from a layer of mulch over the roots of new and existing plants. Arborist wood chips are preferred because not only does it help retain moisture, but it actually absorbs moisture and helps to prevent runoff and the water ends soaking into the soil.
Mulch applied to the soil surface helps to moderate the temperature keeping it cooler during the hottest times of the season and of course holding the heat a bit when the temperatures dip. Mulch applications are excellent for new plantings in the fall as it will encourage new roots to develop later in the season in colder regions.
Let’s not forget that applying mulch to the soil surface around your plants will prevent weed from germinating. Less chemical use and less physical weeding it not only better for the plants but saves you time and money. As soon as you have your plants installed and you have bare soil, if you cover that bare soil with about 4-6 inches thick you won’t see any weeds. Remember that you should never pile any mulch up against the trunks of trees or stems of the plants.
Remember that mulch put around your ornamentals will keep your plant cleaner from the mud from splashing up on the plants preventing soil borne fungus like black spot, mildew and rust on plants that are susceptible. That alone is an incredible reason alone to make sure you get your mulch around your plants.
Applying mulch over the soil around your landscape plants really adds the finishing touch. It ties the whole landscape together. It really completes the look that we all love.
There are other options available when it comes to mulching plant materials. Many times in commercial landscapes smaller rock or stones are used in various colors. Most of the stone mulches are applied with a landscape fabric or plastic beneath and some type of edging to keep the stone confined to the beds. Stone is not always the best for plants as the stone heats up and hold heat in colder climates and may mess up the plants going dormant in winter or heating up causing them to start growing. Some commercial landscapes use a mix of stones or gravel in some areas and chipped or shredded wood mulch closest to the plants for an interesting mix.
Some mulches being sold are actually chipped up rubber tires that may be dyed various colors. This mulch will not decompose but they may be extremely flammable so be careful using a rubber product.
There are wood mulches that are options. Bark chunks do not absorb the water and can easily move from the area that you want to keep them. Chipped and dyed mulches are many times used for those that want a red, brown, yellow or other colors showing up in landscapes too. Many landscape companies use shredded hardwood mulches.
The interesting thing is the arborists wood chips that chips needles, leaves, stems, twigs, branches and whatever else that gets chipped up is one of the best mulches you can use – and best of all it most communities it is free! There is even a website you can check out to see if they do free arborist wood chip drop right to your door locally. Check out here: https://getchipdrop.com/
Help to keep your landscape plants weed free with fewer chemicals, stress free with better moisture retention, and reduce the runoff from your property.
Planting continues all season long with high quality container grown plants from Nature Hills with great success!
As the season changes, so do our care suggestions for the types plants being delivered during the heat of the summer. Water is crucial for the plants survival right at the start.
The key to understanding container grown plants is that they only take water from the soil that we shipped with the plants. The plants are growing full speed now with heat and longer days at the nursery. The roots have now filled the pots and have infiltrated all the soil within that pot.
At the nursery they are getting watered once, maybe twice each day possibly including a cool down watering during the heat of the day. This container grown plants need to be completely saturated and if you take the time to do just that, the success rate is beyond belief.
Here are a few tips for summer and fall:
- Summer container grown plants need to be rehydrated as soon as you can open the box! You need to get your plant caught up on the moisture it requires to sustain the plant, and the best way to do that is to fill a large bucket with enough water so when you put that container plant into the water, it will completely cover the soil and pot completely.
- Now let that pot sit under water until it stops bubbling (which means it has saturated the soil completely), pull the plant out and let any excess drain away.
- Now, plant your new plant by digging a hole no deeper than the pot but twice as wide. Backfill with the soil you excavated from the hole, and one more time fill the hole with water completely saturating the soil of the plant and the soil around it. We see a huge amount of success with this planting method!
- After planting, how do you know if your plant needs water or not? Use the finger test. Stick your finger into the soil up to the 2nd knuckle right at the roots. If it feels moist- skip watering that day. If it feels dry – water thoroughly. As soon as the roots grow out to find their own food and water they become less dependent upon you for water. Rain does not usually generate enough moisture unless it was a soaker. Remember that temperature, wind, and soil type will all affect how quickly a new plant dries out.
- Lastly, water the soil (not the leaves) of any plant. Watering the soil and keeping the leaves dry lessens the chance of leaf spotting, foliar disease, or bacteria on the plant. Putting mulch over the roots maintains better moisture and prevents soil borne disease on the leaves.
Nature Hills is shipping quality, completely compliant plants across the U.S. all summer long.
Have you ever heard the garden saying regarding establishing perennials: “the first year they sleep, the second year they creep, and the third year they leap”? Nature Hills is making it easy to make the leap and create big impact with well-established perennials for your backyard oasis.
Last year, we geared up our perennial production and started growing beautiful specimen perennials in big #1 container size that are 6-8 inches across and hold about a gallon of soil. This crop is now ready for your landscape. These #1 perennials are going to present well in your landscape and will “leap” much sooner for you.
Growing perennials a year ahead gives these plants time to multiply and grow to a nice size in our pots. Many other growers pot up small liners and force them out in a greenhouse then ship them in the same season. These #1 plants were grown last year, overwintered, and shipped now. Our big robust perennials travel well in our beautifully engineered boxes, arriving at your door healthy and ready for planting.
When you receive your #1 perennials, pull the root ball out of the pot, lay on its side, and cut off the bottom inch or so of soil and plant for perfect success. Give these larger more established plants more space in your landscape because we grew them an extra year for you!
Each spring, we see people having their lawn rolled. One of the biggest problems of growing most plants - whether roses, trees, or even grass – is soil compaction.
Lawn rolling uses a heavy weight to roll over your grass area to eliminate bumps or imperfections. But please do not compact your soil.
If you have imperfections in your lawn, you are better off raking topsoil into the lower areas and filling them in, INSTEAD of rolling and compacting your soil.
Leave the lawn rolling to the amateurs and allow your lawn the opportunity to breathe!
Those of you lucky enough to be growing roses in the warmer regions of the country, you don’t have to be so concerned about getting your rose plant to survive the winter season. Your plants are already actively growing, and some are already seeing flowers.
In areas where roses go completely dormant and need protection, those roses are just starting to wake up.
We have found the best way to over winter Hybrid tea, Floribunda, Grandiflora, shrub roses, and climbers is to mound up the base of the plants with at least a foot of arborist wood chips, or mulch of any kind. This covers the bottom foot of so of the canes protecting the plants. Climbing roses that are not hardy should be carefully laid down and those canes covered with wood chips or mulch too.
Now that winter has finally receded from the northern areas it is time to pull that mulch away from the bottoms of the rose canes and get them pruned! Wear some good heavy gloves to protect your hands.
Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas, and many shrub roses all make flowers on NEW GROWTH. That means that these roses you are uncovering really do need to be trimmed so the plants produce the best flowers.
In these colder regions, we do not trim roses in the fall. We leave the rose branches (canes) alone until early spring just before they start to grow.
Older rose bushes that have been in place for many years you should take a bit of time with each plant eliminating any dead or brown and dry canes right down to the ground with a nice sharp pruning shears. Any nice green stems that are not broken and look healthy should be reduced to about 6-8 inches in height.
The new growth that develops from those 6-8-inch canes will produce nice strong stems with large and healthy flowers.
Any of the older shrub rose types that bloom on old stems should not be pruned now. Know what kind of rose you have before you prune. Some of these older native roses that bloom on last years growth will flower in June and when that stem flowers you cut it down to the ground and new stems arise from the ground. Those stems make next year’s flowers.
Climbing roses are a bit fussier in the more northern climates for sure. Very formally trained climbing roses that are trained over arches or trellises may need to have some professional advice based upon the variety to best know how to prune them.
In most cases Climbing roses will bloom on the stems from last year. Then the newest shoots from the ground may also produce roses on the tips of those newest canes later in the summer. When the oldest, fattest stems are done blooming after their first set of blooms, those stems can be removed as far down as the ground allowing new stems to take over that arise from the ground. In some cases, if you are trying to maintain cover of an entire rose arbor you may decide to leave more of the older wood in place, so the plant does continue to cover the entire trellis or structure it has been trained on.
The key is removing older and/or diseased stems leaving clean and healthy stems each year. Winter damage may make pruning decisions for you.
Clematis vines make and incredible companion plant that can be planted among climbing roses allowing the Clematis vines to mingle with the rose canes adding complementary or even contrasting colors to the rose blooms. Both the Clematis and the Rose can co-mingle quite nicely neither overtaking the other making them perfect companions to co-exist.
Roses love sun. The more sun, the more flowers you will see. Sun makes strong canes and sturdy flowers, and initiates reblooming roses quicker. Water the roots, do not water the leaves. Keeping the leaves dry will lessen the chance of foliar diseases. Mulch over the soil up to the rose canes will not only look nice, also reduces the incidence of soil born diseases.
Treating roses for insects can be done with organic options or if not many. Or if you are in an area that has a lot of pressure from insects you may want to consider using a systemic rose care option. Granular systemic rose care is applied to the soil, watered in, and the plant takes up the active ingredient to prevent bugs from chewing on those plants.
With all the incredible options of shrub roses today, be sure to check out the many amazing colors, smaller sizes, and re-blooming and everblooming options that make shrub roses so popular for today’s color injectors to your landscape.
If you need help deciding which roses are for you, be sure to let us help. Don’t forget to cut a few and include them on your nightstand or at your dinner table.
Check out the many pages of pictures of the roses that we offer at Nature Hills Nursery by clicking here.
If you are a new owner of an elegant, white flowered Southern Magnolia, you should know this …
Glossy, dark green, leathery leaves on the Magnolia are incredible, but when spring rolls around, those beautiful leaves turn yellow and spotted and fall off the tree. This is perfectly normal and is expected each year.
Even though Southern Magnolias are evergreens, in spring, new leaves push off the old leaves - but not all at once. Most deciduous trees lose their leaves in the fall, but Southern Magnolias will drop the older leaves in the spring - every spring.
Fresh new foliage replaces the older, discolored leaves, giving your plant a fresh new look each spring! Enjoy.
Arborvitae make an excellent backdrop for your perennial or shrub border and at the same time eliminate the neighbor next to you. Natural, unpruned plants are maintenance-free and offer cover for wildlife year-round. Much better than a fence, don’t you think? NO painting, no maintenance, and a friendly way to eliminate a neighbor’s camper or messy yard that you can both enjoy (maybe even split the cost??). Watch them get better each year. Arborvitae available today can be found by clicking here.
Is there such a thing as plants that deer will not eat? Not really, but there are plants that deer prefer not to eat – if given a choice.
Let’s say you live in an area with lots of deer and you want to add some new plants from Nature Hills to your landscape. To start, choose some plants that deer do not prefer. On the day you plant them - before the end of the very first day - spray on some deer repellent.
Why spray the first day? Deer will move through an area and if there is a plant that was not there previously, they will sample it just to see if they like it.
If you have sprayed the leaves and stems of that new plant that makes it taste bad, deer will move onto something they like better. Re-apply as needed every few weeks. Fencing is another option.
Homemade deer repellent spray
- ½ gallon water
- 2 raw eggs
- 2 tablespoons milk
- 2 crushed garlic cloves
- 2 tablespoons cayenne pepper
Put all ingredients in blender and blend until smooth (may need to do in 2 batches). Strain through mesh screen and put in spray bottle. Apply to the leaves and stems of your new plants. Store in fridge.